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QWET Extraction With Ethanol

Quick Wash Ethanol, also know as QWET is one of the techniques commonly employed to extract oil from cannabis.

Here is skunk pharm’s QWET formula to produce an absolute using a 3 minute quick wash.

As most of our extracted oil goes into oral meds, we also decarboxylate ours. This process is based on the 252F curve shown in the attached graph.

The first question is why use a quick wash technique to extract the resins, instead of long soaks to extract as much resin as possible, or just boiling the material in alcohol to get the greatest amount of extracted material?

The answer to that is that because alcohol is a polar solvent that is soluble in water, the latter two techniques also extract the water solubles like chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, as well as the plant waxes and vegetable oil.

Even quick wash does to a lesser degree, but the added steps that we include here minimize pickup even further and we take additional steps to remove the impurities that we do pick up.

The first wash will usually extract 75 to 80%, leaving the balance for the second. The second extraction will be more sedative and less heady. If you use a hand microscope, you can easily see when the trichome heads are gone and the stalks look like wet fur.

You can also use the material for other extraction methods after it has dried. I have subsequently used BHO after the first QWET wash that yielded 16% oil by weight, and got 5% more pristine oil, or about 21.6% total.

A cured material QWET absolute is one of the most aromatic and tasty of the extraction methods and consistently gets high raves from the volunteer test panels, as well as the patients and students. Both from an efficacy, as well as a flavor standpoint.

The first step in the process is to get as much water as possible out of the material.

A fresh material QWET is possible, but this procedure is specifically for material that has been cured to about 15% water content, which is typical of cured material. 15% is a lot of water and the alcohol already has 5% in it, so unless we reduce the water content even further, we will be extracting a lot of water solubles.

We dry our cured material even further by spreading it on a cookie sheet and baking it in a 200F oven until just frangible when rolled between the finger and thumb.

If the material is prime bud, we break it up loosely by hand and extract from trim as is.

We never, ever, use a blender or coffee grinder to reduce material, because it produces a lot of ultra fine powder that makes it through conventional filters.

Next, while it is still warm, we seal the material in a jar, which we place in the freezer to tie up any remaining water as ice. We also put the 190 proof grain alcohol in the freezer.

When they have both stabilized at about 0ºF, pour the alcohol into the jar of plant material, so that it is at least an inch above the material, and shake it gently a few times to make sure everything is wet. Place back in the freezer.

Remove and gently shake twice more until the material has soaked for 3 minutes, and then dump it through a wire strainer to drain quickly.   We set the strainer atop a fine mesh stainless French Chinoise strainer, or a stainless coffee filter can be used.  Don't press on the material to extract more, but just let it drain.

Set the material aside to dry for a second extraction. We usually keep the two extractions separate, as they will have different properties, as does the third extraction using water.

After refreezing, the second extraction is done like the first, but when it is drained this time, the material is returned to the jar, which is then refilled with water and set aside.

Filter the extracted liquid.

We use either a #1 lab filter with a vacuum assist, or a simple coffee filter to further filter the solution, depending on the quantity we are processing.

Place that filtered liquid in a suitable container and set that container in an oil bath heated to 250F. We use bain marie and other stainless ware from a restaurant supply or a still, so as to recover the alcohol.

Make sure that the container is sitting on something that suspends it up off the bottom of the oil pot. I throw four jar lids in the bottom of my electric fondue pot and use it for that purpose.

Never trust the numbers on the dial and use a good thermometer to set temperatures. We use either a mercury lab thermometer, or a digital one. Good temperature control is key to the process.

That means the device that you use to control the oil temperature must have a narrow dead band, so that the temperature control is stable.

We paid about $60 for a Quisinart fondue pot that was designed to heat sensitive sauces like chocolate and has excellent control throughout its temperature range. We also have a couple of Revels, that are slightly larger and work well, plus cost only about $30, though they have a slightly larger dead band.

Some fry cookers have sensitive enough controls, but many deep fryers designed to primarily run at 375ºF, lack control sensitivity and have large dead bands at 250ºF.

Either boil or distill off the alcohol until the liquid is reduced to a pool of oil, with no large solvent bubbles.

We suck it out of the container using a 60ml syringe, and then filter it to 0.2 microns using a PTFE syringe filter, but a coffee filter or a #1 lab filter may be used.

Place in a suitable container for return to the oil bath and this time cook it until there are not only no large alcohol bubbles, but the production of small CO2 bubbles along the edge dramatically slows down, even when stirred with a bamboo skewer.

Since you have much less material, a smaller one may be used. At this point we put them in small stainless cups with their tare engraved on their sides or a Pyrex beaker. The smaller container reduces the surface area that will be coated with oil when we cook it down the last time and knowing the cups tare weight allows me to take it directly from the oil bath and place it on a scale after simply wiping the exterior.

Since we know the tare, we then know the extracted weight, and exactly how much other ingredients to add. Once adding those ingredients, we place the cup back in the oil bath, where we stir it until well mixed and then decant into its final container.

Since the added ingredients include things that lower the cannabis oils viscosity, very little is left as a film in that container.

If we plan to use the oil as is, without adding any other ingredients, we extract it from the container using the syringe, or a pipette, so as to not leave a streak of material in the vessel. After we have extracted all that I can using a syringe or pipette, we wash the container and pipette out with hot alcohol, and save the wash for the next run.  Nothing is wasted or left behind.

In that vein, as a final step, and for a different product, we strain the water from the plant material, the same way we did the alcohol and cook it off exactly the same way.  When the water is cooked off, we redissolve the remaining oleoresin in hot alcohol, and place it in the freezer for a couple of days, before filtering it.  This time there will also be red waxy globs of insoluble material collected in the bottom of the jar.

Cook off the alcohol, and it produces an oil that is more sedative that either of the first two extractions.

Attached thumbnail(s)

6-30-13 For all of ya'll living where 190 proof isn't readily available, here are a couple sites that will ship most anywhere,

East coasters check out, http://www.winechateau.com/

West coasters, try http://organicalcohol.com/store/

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247 Comments

  1. ganjagrynch

    One thing I would like to know is the saturation point of ethanol. How material can be 100% extracted per volume of ethanol. I'm just asking for an estimate based on ideal conditions.

    Reply
  2. redturtle984

    I am betting that alcoholism rates are much lower too. Alcohol is great at relieving anxiety but obviously destroys health when used for chronic anxiety. Reduced alcoholism rates lower the doctor bill for everyone in a country that requires all to pay for healthcare.

    Reply
  3. Jack

    If you are using 151 proof ethanol, do you need to increase, decrease, or not change the extraction time of 3 minutes in freezer to maximize yield on first extraction and second extractions?

    Reply       Edit
  4. jediknight

    what about using a turkey frier propane heat source in combo with my still to burn off/recapture the first 90% of alcohol? Too much heat?

    Reply       Edit
  5. Blujay

    Further concentration of the ethanol can be achieved by shifting the azeotropic point via vacuum distillation or addition of another substance to the mixture. Often times the compound added is highly toxic such as benzene. However, Everclear is hygroscopic. Meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Even if you achieved 200 proof it would move down to about 195 when introduced back to normal conditions.

    Reply       Edit
  6. Cannaseurs

    I was asking about mixing keif with ethyl alcohol and then filtering the wax out. Since non polar solvents don't dissolve wax you should be able to winterize it before evaporating the alcohol. Use a Büchner funnel. Then steam or a vacuum.

    Reply       Edit
  7. Cannaseurs

    Why can't you dry deive keif and add alcohol to it and stir. Then boil some of the alcohol off, winterize it and evaporate the alcohol?

    Reply       Edit
  8. Dylan

    So much great info that it is overwhelming! I want to make QWET extraction for vaping. I have a filter flask and a hand vac pump. I also have a ceramic Buchner filter (and filter papers) and the ability to cork the flask after filtering. My intention is to mix PG and VG Before cold boiling off the ethanol and collect the ethanol (I have 95% drinking alcohol available but it is very exp) using an ice bath heat exchanger into a gas trap connected to the vacuum. My thinking is that leaving it in liquid form will make removing it from the flask easier and result in a ready to use mixture for vaporising. Would you kindly be able to break down the steps I should take into the most basic instruction points? I will refer back to your detailed post to clarify each point if need be. Many thanks! Your efforts are appreciated all across the globe.

    Reply       Edit
  9. Steve Weglein

    Hello .... I would like to try a QWET on some freshly harvested material. I would assume you at least trim off any fan leaves, and probably at least a rough trim on the flowers.... but beyond that, I would like to know how to proceed, to produce a QWET 'concrete'. Thank you in advance!!! Steve

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      QWET Concretes have a soapy taste, so try a small batch first, before committing your whole crop. We get the best concretes using frozen fresh cut material, and a non polar solvent. To do a QWET on fresh material, I would remove the buds and sugar trim from the lumber and fan leaves, and loosely cut the material into ~1/4/1/2" chunks, minimizing broken cell boundaries where the alcohol can directly access the chlorophyll, and freeze it and the 190 proof down to 0F, before combining them for a soak. I start with a three minute ethanol soak, and watch it like a hawk beyond that point, occasionally gently shaking it to refresh the grain boundaries. If you watch closely, and even draw a sample if necessary, you can see any undesirable color shift toward the green and immediately decant the liquid into a strainer to rapidly drain, and then through a paper filter to remove the balance of the solids. If you thin film vacuum cold boil away the ethanol, you can retain the most monoterpenes and carboxylic acids. You can also evaporate it off the other conventional ways using evaporation an heat.

      Reply
      1. Steve Weglein

        Thank you .... I would have guessed a different method ..... trim the flowers from fan and stems .... cut into 1/4-1/2 inch chunks .... so far the same, but I, was thinking to remove a substantial amount of water in the oven at 200f, perhaps removing the fresh flowers and pan from the oven every 20 min or so to reheat the oven, without burning the flowers. My Skywalker OG, loses 80% of its weight during normal drying, wouldn't cooking off some of this water gently, allow the QWET to capture less of the undesirable water solubles. Would this cook off too many possibly desirable terpenes, or .... ?

        Reply
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          Let's make sure we're saying the same thing. You asked about a QWET concrete, which I interpreted as from fresh material. I consider the oil from dried material an oleoresin, and is how we do ours. We cut the plant, remove the fan leaves, and hang it upside down until the small twigs snap, which is about 25% water content. We cut the buds into 1/4 to 1/2" chunks and freeze them along with the alcohol for the extraction. We use oven drying only for oil to be decarboxylated, where we will lose the monoterpenes anyway. Oven drying also drives off monoterpenes, which is why the house reeks when you do it.

          Reply
          1. FeelingFactory

            Hi GW, Thank you for your continual spread of information and seemingly endless support! To clarify, does the oven drying step take place exclusively with cured material, or should it be also used when working with fresh trim to reduce water content? I realized the post mentions "A cured material QWET absolute is one of the most aromatic and tasty of the extraction methods...", but then the comments reveal oven drying step removes aromatic monoterpenes during decarbing. Is oven drying therefore reserved exclusively for decarbing the material for edibles & topicals, or does the final product still possess the aromatic & tasty qualities mentioned in the above post? I hope to be processing fresh trim soon, and I am still determining whether or not to heat the fresh trim first to remove water before the 3-min, 0-degree QWET for a higher purity. I have a food dehydrator that could be set lower than an oven to remove water but minimize decarbing & possible loss of aromatic compounds while drying, if this would help. Thank you in advance for any clarification!

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              I only use the drying oven on material that will made into decarboxylated oral oil. For vaporizing material, I freeze the material at 5 to 7 days drying and about 25% moisture content. The monoterpenes will leave with the water if you make it bone dry.

  10. walrus

    Been using this method for a while now with great success. Had a bit of a disaster tonight though. Just as the oil was finished purging/decarbing, I reached for the beaker and knocked it over into the oil bath, flooding the whole thing with canola. 3+grams of pristine oil wasted. I suppose I could use it to cook with. Any suggestions on how to use it? Thanks Skunk Pharm for sharing all of your knowledge. Hopefully I won't be such a putz in the future.

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      I've had similar experiences and used the oil to medicate an arthritic pup. A friends Rott/Pit mix was getting too stove up to go on walks anymore, but after a tablespoon of the oil over his kibble, he was jumping into the back of the pickup again and promoting outings.

      Reply
  11. herman

    Hi GW, thank you for sharing this! I am going to provide a cancer patient with RSO using ethanol as solvent. It seems to me that your QWET method is the best way to preserve all the goodies from the plant while minimizing chlorophyll extraction. So far I have one question left though. I would like to combine the first and second extraction in the still to evaporate and reclaim the alcohol. You say that the material has to be dried after the first wash. Is that because you keep the extractions separate? Is it necessary to dry when I combine the extracts in the still anyway? Thanks in advance for enlightening me. Please keep up the good work!

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      No problem combining them in the still, to produce one grade, rather than two. You don't have to dry the material between alcohol washes, just keep it below freezing temperatures. You do need to dry it before switching to a different solvent.

      Reply
      1. herman

        Thank you for your prompt reply and clarification. After the first wash I will place the jar with buds back in the freezer for a couple of hours so that it will go well below freezing point again. Then the second wash and that is it. That should get me going. Thanks again for your help!

        Reply
  12. Snorlax

    Can I use potassium bicarbonate to "salt out" my diluted ethanol in attempts to try to increase the proof of my ethanol? If so, is any residual k2co3 left in my ethanol? And is it possible to remove using a carbon filter? Thank you.

    Reply       Edit
      1. Snorlax

        This is my source stating how to salt out ethanol. It says since it's soluble in water and not ethanol it is used for salting out. I do not have a degree I'm just doing some research. If I can't use k2co3 how could I increase the proof of my ethanol? Distilling it again? Or is 180 proof okay to use?

        Reply
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          Ok. I misunderstood the way you were using the term "salting out". I have always heard it used in reference to precipitating a substance as a salt. I have used various salts to dry organic solvents. Which is exactly what you are trying to accomplish. 180 proof will work and k2co3 may remove the remaining water. It will very quickly return to azeotropic balance once the salt is removed.

          Reply
          1. Snorlax

            It's alright my description of "salting out" wasn't very specific initially. I didn't know it would return its azeotropic balance is removed. That very interesting :) is it because ethanol loves water(hydrophilic)?and like you said before, it starts off with 5% water and will absorb more through the plant material? Does absorb moisture from the atmosphere? Just trying to understand the logistics behind the process. And you said 180 proof is okay? If I dry out my material and use 180 proof do you think ill pull out an abundance of polarities from the residual water? Thanks for all your help!

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              It will absorb moisture from all sources through exposure. Its because of the hydroxide groups affinity for water and a lack of significant hydrophobicity from only having 2 carbons. Anything polar like alcohol will solvate polar compounds more efficiently than they will non polar compounds. Which can be mitigated through low temperature and quick incubation times; where they are not as efficient.

          2. Snorlax

            Alright, interesting that makes sense! I'm keeping my ethanol in the freezer around 0C and along with my dried material in a ziploc in the freezer. I'm attempting to "tie up" the water the while I extract. Do you think putting the material in the freezer after drying is counter productive(maybe exposes is to moisture?). I'm planning to do a side by side comparison soon, just wanted your input. Lastly, I was wondering if a good amount of plant waxes and lipids are pulled through in a QWET extraction? if so, could it be possible to do a filtration and allow the saturated ethanol sit in the freezer for 24-48 hrs to allow undesirables to precipitate out then filter?

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              If the material is in an air tight container, it won't pick up atmospheric moisture coating the trichomes. QWET doesn't pull many non polar fats and lipids, but it will pull polar element like water solubles and chlorophyll.

          3. Snorlax

            Again thank you for your time and patience answering all my questions. I was wondering if there is anyway to remove the chlorophyll? I've read your post about cleaning up using brine water. I read in the comments it has to be suspended in a non polar solvent. Would I have to evaporate redissolve and clean up with brine or is there an easier way?

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              The only easy way I know to deal with chlorophyll, is to not extract it in the first place. You can sun bleach some of it with strong UV, which breaks down chlorophyll into its bi-products, but that won't help much with serious chlorophyll contamination. You could strip it with chromatography beads, but that would also involve a non polar solvent.

          4. Snorlax

            Thank you guys! sorry, I've been drowning in school work and individual projects. But I return with a question, I've been looking more and more into testing my own product. Cannatest provides a "DIY test" which I believing is just "cannabinoid fingerprinting" and comparing to a standard. I've been looking into purchasing a chromatography system, I work with a Gas chromatography units on the daily but have minimal experience working with a HPLC unit(but taking classes next semester to gain some experience). I've been reading that LC is better than GC when testing cannabis because there is no need to decarb. I'm not getting a system soon but was just tossing the idea around with a couple colleagues. If I were to embark on such a mission would you have any recommendations/opinion? (Maybe what type of system is ideal, your experiences, and if its even worth it) P.S Doing this I'd like to be able to test my own samples as well as friends and maybe gain some experience along the way, I'm not trying to start a business or get rich.

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              A GC can't tell the difference between the carboxylic acid forms and the phenolic forms of THC, because the very process of heating them up in the GC, decarboxylates them, so you need an HPLC for that function. A GC column gets clogged if you are testing substances with non volatiles. A GC with a Mass Spectrometer attached would be ideal for much of the testing, but spendy.

          5. Snorlax

            After a little bit of investigation I have found Canna-test DIY is a Fast Corinth v salt test. That is what I mean by the term "Cannabinoid fingerprinting", Canna-test is currently charging $3,000 for a one day class instructing how to do a fast corinth v salt test...

            Reply
  13. skunkpharmresearch

    Electrical conductivity would increase proportionally with metal concentration. I would use a multiple stage water filtration system. Which is generally a carbon prefilter, cationic and anionic resins.

    Reply
  14. Nir Segal

    Hello :-) So, after the first boil off the alcohol until the liquid is reduced to a pool of oil, with no large solvent bubbles. you add more alcohol (at least ten volumes of alcohol) and freeze it. My question is - why do we need to evaporate ALL the alcohol and then add new alcohol... can i just not evaporate all the alcohol in the first place and go directly to the 48 hours freeze? Thank you Nir

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      Redissolving an ethanol extract in ethanol again is a nuance that primarily gets rid of water soluble. Ethanol likes water, so besides the 5% water that it starts with, it absorbs more from the plant matter. That water brings along water solubles. If you remove the alcohol and water, and then redissolve it in 95.5% ethanol again, the new alcohol doesn't have as much water to absorb the water solubles, so more are left behind. It is enough of a nuance and a two sided coin, that I just deleted that step. The flip side of the coin, is that it also removes more of the lighter terpenes

      Reply
  15. Glenn

    Why are you specifying a temp of 0F for the inital soak? Has anyone ever determined the optimal combination of temperature and soak time and agitation needed to extract the maximum amount of clean oil, (by clean oil, I mean oil without chlorophyl or waxes)? If the oil is frozen inside the leaf can it still go into the ethanol? I am currently expermenting with extending the soak times by cyro-freezing. I first tried adding food grade dry ice to the ethanol/cannabis mixture directly , while gently stirring the solution until it partially freezes,(~ -70C) and straining the mixture at ~ 20C. I've had some success, (though low yields), with this technique, but only after a few disasters, (for example if the solution freezes completely the cannabis will be pulverized and the chlorophyll will be dissolved into the ethanol). I am also experimenting with various cooling baths such as dry ice /isopropyl alcohol and dry ice/propylene glycol/water.

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      I am specifying 0F because it is cold enough to tie up the water long enough to do an extraction and most modern freezers will pull to that level. I'm pretty sure that 5F would work just as well. The soak time at temperature depends heavily on what you are trying dissolve. 3 minutes is a good start place for ethanol, from which you can extend the time until you suffer color. The resin that we extract is not in the plant material, it is on the surface in the trichomes. We don't grind material for polar extraction,

      Reply
  16. P77

    I use Absolute Alch.(99.8% pure) for QWET - any differences I should be aware of in technique versus using alch. with more H2O?

    Reply       Edit
  17. Liam Morgan

    What are some potential drawbacks to having material for qwet extraction freezing for periods of time significantly beyond them being sufficiently frozen? Like say a month or more for instance. How will this kind of procrastination negatively effect my end result if at all?

    Reply       Edit
  18. Liam Morgan

    Can a qwet extraction be purged under vacuum in essentially the same way as a bho? I have some super frosty trimmings i have toasted and frozen according to the steps outlined above, awaiting extraction. I intend to use the extracted oil solely for vaporization so Im wondering what is in the middle of the best and most cost effective way to evaporate and purge the ethanol while retaining the highest terpene content and decarbing as little as possible

    Reply       Edit
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          No, but you can easily make one out of a 22 quart pressure cooker and a 1" sheet of Lexan for the lid. Use a Viton gasket, which Paramount Supply can cut for you, as can Gaskets Unlimited. You can drill and tap the Lexan for the plumbing, or better yet, weld a nipple on the pot itself, to preserve the intregity of the Lexan.

          Reply
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          Fresh material starts out as a carboxylic acid, so is already shatter, as it is brittle at room temperature. The challenge is to remove the solvent to acceptable levels, without adding enough heat to decarboxylate the raw extraction, and retaining enough monoterpenes to give it aroma and flavor. Once you've removed the ethanol in this case, if you haven't decarboxylated it in the process, you will have brittle stiff material, that shatters at ambient temperatures. More directly to the question, a thin film thickness is important, and some raw oleoresins have higher viscosity at a given temperature than others, so nothing is written in stone. Even the same material, in the same thin film reacts differently throwing in the variable of batch size. Soooo, the best you can do, is set the parameters and pay attention to what is going on, making necessary adjustments and determining when it is finished, from your observations. For ethanol, I typically run at 120F at ~-29.5" Hg, until the alcohol stops producing bubbles. Cannabis oleoresin thinned with a little ethanol, blows huge bubbles that resist bursting, so I typically burp the vacuum to collapse them, to reduce time. I can purge a 6" Petri dish thin film in under an hour, but a 9" X 11" casserole dish size, takes several hours. GW

          Reply
  19. UnblemishedMind

    Excellent website, thank you so much for this information! A question regarding QWET, kif, and saturation point for 190 proof alcohol. "pour the alcohol into the jar of plant material, so that it is at least an inch above the material" If using kif, does more alcohol need to be added than 'an inch above the material'? Can you please advise about saturation points for kif so I can make this oil using the least amount of starting alcohol possible? For cost, and evaporation issues, wondering what is the ratio for the most efficient amount of alcohol. Not to waste any 190 proof, but also not to lose any potency by unknowingly reaching saturation point when using kif. I will do the 2nd and 3rd wash technique to maximise extraction, but for a starting point, and efficiency how much 190 proof to start with would you advise? (I am not set up yet for re-caputuring the evaporated alcohol at this time, and for heath reasons want to make the oil as soon as possible) Many thanks, keep up the good work!

    Reply       Edit
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          No need to winterize with Kif and ethanol. You can soak and shake until it is dissolved, because you aren't worried about chlorophyll pickup. Probably in the neighborhood of ten to thirty minutes to get it all.

          Reply
          1. jds

            Would anything need to be frozen when using kief? Actually, could I warm the ethanol slightly to speed the extraction?

            Reply
            1. skunkpharmresearch

              You don't need to freeze kif in the first place, as the water solubles and chlorophyll have already been mostly removed from the picture. You can boil the kif for maximum extraction speed, but that will also partially decarboxylate it and it most likely won't end up shatter. If you want to end up with light colored carboxylic acid shatter, I would keep the alcohol below ~80F during extraction and cold boil away the alcohol under vacuum to purge. If it is for oral consumption, I would boil the kif in the alcohol for about 20/30 minutes, or until all the resin is dissolved. Use a microscope to examine the kif, as there will be a a fair amount of material left behind after the resin is extracted. Once all the resin heads are visibly gone, and only the stalks and discs remain, stop boiling and filter.

  20. sageplant

    was almost ready to make RSO, but keep hesitating on the naphtha. In Ca, so cant get the light stuff,can get iso. I see the qwet method , but not sure if its over my head . Is this the step you recomend to get a high quaility oil for medicine? Thanks

    Reply       Edit
      1. CALumi

        Hey GF, I have gotten a lot of your help on the BHO forum. I wanted to attempt to make QWET using your technique however, somewhere down the line someone said QWET works best with kief. Not knowing what I know now, I took about 2 fluid ounces of ethanol and I added 2 grams of kief. I then threw it in the freezer and it has been sitting there for some time. I was wondering since I have more kief and I have some frosty flowers. Should I place the flowers in the freezer and then into the container that has the ethanol and the kief in it? Then follow the recipe on your page or should I not worry about messing with the flowers and just use the kief? I place in a double boiler an allow the ethanol to reach boiling point, then cool down? Will I be using a thin film to purge anything or can I just deacrb the kief in the ethanol and then pour onto a large surface area and dry?

        Reply
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          I would run the kif and flowers separately. You can soak kif for a long time in ethanol, but soaking the flowers will pick up excessive chlorophyll. They work better with a quick wash technique. Boiling off the alcohol at 173F will partially decarboxylate the oil and make it less viscous. Cold boiling the oil away at 115F under vacuum will avoid the decarboxylation and produce shatter. You can naturally evaporate away the alcohol with a fan at ambient temperatures, but will have to use some heat at the end to do the final purge.

          Reply
          1. cheeba_amiba

            How much heat? I usually just set it on top of an electric stove top on low, but recently got a slick pad and wanna start using my electric pancake griddle and don't know if it will go low enough.

            Reply
  21. poplars

    is it viable to do the 2nd wash with water to collect everything? (to save ethanol) or would that be inefficient? *starts 3 min wash now.*

    Reply       Edit
  22. kannamed

    Great! Thanks for the explanation and the HAO and HS page link. I’ve got my homework cut out for me. It’s always exciting to learn and apply new concepts. Aromatic tasting oil and holy? It can’t get any better than that! I appreciate your answer GW.

    Reply       Edit
  23. kannamed

    Hi GW, Thanks for your ongoing research and for sharing your acquired knowledge with all of us. I’ve learned a lot by surfing up, down and all around your Skunk Pharm Research website. My favorite extraction is the QWET method. Reading through this page, I find a comment that I don’t understand and would like for you to explain: “Since we know the tare, we then know the extracted weight, and exactly how much other ingredients to add.” When you refer to other ingredients to add, which other ingredients are you referring to and why would you add these ingredients?

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      I was refering to when we make oral or topical medications out of the oil by adding things like coconut oi, cinnamon, myrrh, Emu Oil, etc. Check out http://skunkpharmresearch.com/holy-anointing-oil-and-holy-shit/ GW

      Reply
  24. Liam

    when you mention adding additional ingredients to lower the oils viscosity during the final reduction after freezing, Is there any reason you couldn't skip this step and just reduce it down as is? It would be more difficult to remove everything from the vessel then of course, but is there any reason you must add any of these ingredients?

    Reply       Edit
  25. Dr teeth

    I keep reading throughout your site that you freeze your alcohol washes at 0f; what device are you using to achieve such a low temperature?

    Reply       Edit
  26. Will

    It sounds like the panels of judges like QWISO and QWET equally - was/is there a preference between the two? I can imagine both processes should result in almost the same flavor profile and there should be almost no residual solvent if evaporated properly. However, if the solvent wasnt fully evaporated which would be safer? I would assume that ET would be less noticeable flavor wise.

    Reply       Edit
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      Actually more folks liked the QWET taste better and it is less noticeable from a flavor stand point if under purged, as Isopropyl is a pungent alcohol. Far more pungent that even the Propyl alcohol that it is an isomer of. The effects are similar, but I personally find the flavors smoother and more subtle with EtOh, when vaporized.

      Reply
    1. skunkpharmresearch

      Hi Tommy, I sent you an e-mail to the address you provided, saying that our Oregon OMMP cards only permit us to provide cannabis products to OMMP cardholders here in Oregon and if you can make it here, we will help you get registered and provide you with free meds to try. As an alternative, I can provide support from here, on how to extract and formulate it yourself. I've been told that http://www.winechateau.com/sku1004371.html will ship 190 proof Everclear anywhere in the US, if you lack local sources.

      Reply
  27. tommymcgreen

    now five or six days in. I could still use qwet. I also had a question about using a bel-art vacuum dessicator. What pump is the most affordable but still has 2 stages and pulls a true vacuum?

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  28. tommymcgreen

    I would like to learn how to doa qwet extraction but I am already 3 days into an opiate detox. The plant waxes from this FINE quality vac purged jilly bean oil nor the girl scout cookies is cutting it. I would love to exchange for some rick simpson made this way or some sort of edible hash

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  29. tommymcgreen

    want to do a qwet extraction for opiate detox. I am already 3 days in but only know hot to do a butane extraction. willing to trade

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    1. skunkpharmresearch

      Hi Bigstevo! Is dat chew? I haven't seen you since the Supreme Court! Yes, we supply it mostly as a sublingual. The recipes and procedures are as follows:http://skunkpharmresearch.com/holy-anointing-oil-and-holy-shit/ If you are still in the area and want to sample some for effect, give me a call and you can try ours, or we can mix up some of your oil for you to try. GW

      Reply
      1. bigstevo

        Sorry GW I think you may have confused me with someone else. :( Hope you catch up with your friend soon though. So if I understand you correctly, I could follow the above recipe for QWET and consume it sublingual? would I need to leave some alcohol in it, to keep it a runny consistency so it could be administered via a dropper? Thanks for your help/

        Reply
        1. skunkpharmresearch

          No problem, our Bigstevo is loved and respected locally, so it starts you off on a good foot! If you follow the QWET recipe, decarboxylate it, and then turn it into Holy Shit, or Holy Anointing Oil Oral, it will work sublingually through a standard dropper bottle. http://skunkpharmresearch.com/decarboxylation/ http://skunkpharmresearch.com/holy-anointing-oil-and-holy-shit/

          Reply
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