Polishing extracts

Some MMJ applications require greater purity and potency, so it is desirable to remove inactive ingredients like fats, lipids, and plant waxes, as well as any chlorophyll and other water solubles.

When I class chlorophyll with the water solubles, it is not in the same vein as the term is used in inorganic chemistry and is more involved.  Chlorophyll itself has a polar head and hydrophobic tail, so it is mostly non soluble in polar water, but can be removed from the plant and conveyed by water as micelle.

Water also dissolves and washes away the Chlorophyll binding proteins and exposes the Chlorophyll to the solvent used.  Chlorophyll is highly soluble in alcohol and slightly soluble in butane.

For further discussion of that subject, please see: https://skunkpharmresearch.com/chlorophyll-pickup-in-extractions/

Processes that use a polar solvent and reflux or soxhlet to maximize extraction, also maximize and concentrate chlorophyll, which can be a problem for some people.  The poison is in the dosage, so even for a salubrious ingredients like chlorophyll, some people can get too much of a good thing, producing digestive tract upsets, with attendant vomiting, cramps, and diarrhea.

See: http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002893.htm  for details.

In a nutshell, many water soluble non cannabinoid ingredients come along for the ride when a polar solvent is used and water is present. While it is easier to use a process that minimizes their extraction in the first place, if that is a moot point, because you already have an extraction with excessive non-active ingredients, here are some ways to clean them up?


After re-dissolving the extract in ethanol or hexane, it may simply be filtered to remove the material that is insoluble.  We usually use coffee filters for this purpose, or if we have a larger amount, we use a Whatman # 1 lab filter, with a vacuum assist.

If we wish to filter it further, we run it through 0.45 or 0.2 micron syringe filters, which takes out any remaining plant material, as well as any bacteria present.


When using non polar solvents like butane and hexane, some non-polar waxes, fats, and lipids are extracted as well.  An easy way to get rid of them is to simply re-dissolve the non-polar extraction in 190 proof (~95.5% azeotropic) polar ethanol and stick it in the freezer for about 48 hours at -18C/0F, for the waxes to coagulate.

The waxes will precipitate out of solution as the temperature drops and clump together so that they are easily filtered out with a standard coffee filter, or a Whatman #1 lab filter.

Here is what a winterizing filter cake looks like, while still wet.

After filtering, the alcohol is evaporated or vacuumed off, to leave a pristine Absolute.

Winterizing ISO, Methanol, and Denatured alcohol extractions:

Even though Ethanol is polar itself, it can still be used to remove some of the undesirables they pick up, because it is not as aggressive a solvent as Isopropyl and Methanol.  By re-dissolving their extracts in hot ethanol and then placing that in the freezer overnight, some of the undesirables will precipitate out and may be filtered out.

Removing minor green coloration:

Because butane is non polar and considered insoluble in water, it is the longest chain alkane that is still slightly water soluble at 0.0325 vol/vol (3.25%).  That means that a liter of n-butane will actually hold as much as 32.5 ml or mgs of water (1000ml X 0.0325).

3.25% by volume is also enough water to bring along some water solubles like chlorophyll and leave an otherwise pristine extraction with a green tint, usually light and sometimes a gorgeous electric hue.

These light green hues are easily removed without the more involved and extreme measures that I will follow up with, and is as simple as putting a jar of the oil suspended in an ethanol tincture, in sunlight or a light from a high UV source, like a grow lamp.

The UV radiation in the sunlight will quickly break down the chlorophyll and the breakdown products are amber, so the green color disappears.

Alas, UV radiation also destroys cannabinoids, but fortunately at a much slower rate, and three or four hours in the sun is usually enough.


Oops!  Soooo, what if the extraction is really, really messed up, or if you just want to see how purdy you can make an extract?

Sometimes bad things happens to good oil, and evil spirits need to be exorcised, or sometimes the most economical process, or indeed the only available extraction process, extracts undesirables.  Fortunately there are ways to remove undesirables, though at the expense of yield and some of the other terpenes, so there is compromise involved.

Alcohol/Hexane wash:

One way to clean up an alcohol extraction, is to reduce its volume to a manageable level given your resources, and pour it in a separatory funnel to about the one third level, followed by the same volume of n-Hexane and then of water.

We use an HPLC Reagent grade for this purpose, which we get from the local scientific supply store.

Shake well and then lift the lid long enough to burp any pressure, before setting it in a stand to stratify into layers.  After it has separated, bleed off the water and emulsion layer.  They contain both the undesirables, and the alcohol as well, with the cannabinoids left with the hexane.

Add water again and repeat the wash step until you are satisfied with the clarity, before evaporating off the hexane, to yield the pristine oil.  More on hexane purging in the subsequent process description for serious scrubbing:

To put this process into perspective, I once collected all of my pipe bowl  scrapings and roaches until I had about a pint of them, and dumped that into the container of black denatured alcohol, that I had been cleaning my pipes in.

I shook the mixture well and let it soak for a day to extract the material from the roaches and scrapings, before straining it through a wire strainer and then a coffee filter.

Because I didn’t want to mess up a separatory funnel with the black foul smelling mess, I poured the solution in a 1 gallon Ziploc bag, to which I added equal amounts of water and hexane.

After shaking it well, I hung it from one corner, to let it stratify, and after it had, I clipped off the lower corner of the Ziploc bag, and by pinching it, and controlling the bleed rate, I was able to bleed off the water, alcohol, and emulsion layer, so that only the now gold hexane solution remained.

I filtered the hexane and poured that into a Pyrex pie plate, which I blew air over with a fan to evaporate off.  Attached are pictures of the amber oil that I extracted.

While the black color was gone, slight ashtray undertones could still be tasted, so further refining was necessary with activated charcoal, but we will cover that as a separate subject.

I am not suggesting this process for reclaiming ashtrays, but simply to make a point.

Hexane/Saline water wash:

Joe came up with this process, which has produced our most pristine creations.  It involves  re-dissolving the oil in a hot highly non-polar solvent such as hexane and repeatedly washing the solution with saturated salt water until it is mint quality.

Salt water washing uses a separatory funnel as above, but we start out dissolving the extraction to be cleaned directly into hot n-Hexane, and then washing the hexane solution with saturated salt water.

The magic trick is two fold.  The saline exposes any proteins hydrophobic surfaces, making them insoluble in water, so that they precipitate out, and the saturated water has no room for anything but the alcohol, which aids that process.

We start out by making four or five liters of saturated salt water in a glass (or ceramic) container, by mixing sodium chloride (table salt) in hot tap water with a hand mixer until no more will dissolve. We buy the salt cheap by the bag, using salt intended for water softener use.

We perform the salt water wash of the hexane mixture, by simply pouring the salt water and hexane into the separatory funnel together in about equal parts and shaking well and burping, before allowing the mixture to separate out into layers.

After carefully bleeding off the bottom layer of water, we continue to replace it and repeat the wash process of both the emulsion layer and the hexane solution, until the emulsion layer disappears and the hexane has bell clear clarity.

At that point we stop washing and evaporate off the hexane. While we use HPLC grade hexane, light naphtha containing only Pentane & Hexane will also work for this process.  Check the MSDS because the word light naphtha only means it boils between 30C and 100C, so it can contain Benzene..

Purging Hexane:

While n-Hexane is a delightfully non polar solvent, that enables us to do some amazing things, it has two more carbons and four more hydrogen atoms in the chain than Butane, and so due to the greater Van der Waal forces involved, is not as easy to get rid of as Butane.

The most effective way that we’ve found to remove the residual hexane, is either with multiple ethanol washes, usually around three, or thin film vacuum.

To wash with ethanol, redissolve the hexane honey oil in ethanol at a ration of about 10 to one and boil off the alcohol.  When it is almost all gone, do it again, and repeat, until there is no decernable hexane odor.

For thin film evaporation, we place about .200 inch of it in a six inch Petri dish, which we place in a vacuum chamber and evacuate down to 29.5 mm Hg and ~80F for 30 minutes.

N-Hexane boils at about 69 °C/ 156 °F and has a high vapor pressure, so it is easy to evaporate, but harder to completely purge.  Given our 30ppm taste sensory threshold and our 130 ppm odor threshold, we can detect its presence, long before we reach levels of concern.

Because it is a simple Alkane and relatively non toxic, hexane is used extensively in food extraction, but should not be viewed as being as salubrious as mother’s milk.

The first clue of course, is that it doesn’t come in nearly as attractive a container, and the second is the MSDS information which tells us, that in excess, N-Hexane attacks our nervous system.  The following is a typical MSDS Section 8:


Section 8: Exposure Controls/Personal Protection

Engineering Controls:

Provide exhaust ventilation or other engineering controls to keep the airborne concentrations of vapors below their respective
threshold limit value. Ensure that eyewash stations and safety showers are proximal to the work-station location.

Personal Protection:

Safety glasses. Lab coat. Vapor respirator. Be sure to use an approved/certified respirator or equivalent. Gloves (impervious).

Exposure Limits:

TWA: 500 (ppm) from OSHA (PEL) [United States] Inhalation TWA: 1800 (mg/m3) from OSHA (PEL) [United States] Inhalation

TWA: 176 (mg/m3) from ACGIH (TLV) [United States] SKIN TWA: 50 (ppm) from ACGIH (TLV) [United States] SKIN TWA:

500 STEL: 1000 (ppm) from ACGIH (TLV) [United States] Inhalation TWA: 1760 STEL: 3500 (mg/m3) from ACGIH (TLV)

Section 11: Toxicological Information

Routes of Entry: Absorbed through skin. Dermal contact. Inhalation. Ingestion.

Toxicity to Animals:


toxicity (LD50): 25000 mg/kg [Rat]. Acute toxicity of the gas (LC50): 48000 ppm 4 hours [Rat].

As the saying goes, the poison is in the dosage, so leave us please keep N-Hexane’s potential nature in perspective, which includes never losing sight of it.  Note also that oxygen in a breathing atmosphere greater than 75% pure will kill us dead!

A review of the hexane Material Safety Data Sheet shows that the oral rat LD50: is relatively high at 25000 mg/kg.

Acute toxicity of the gas (LC50 rat): was 48000 ppm using 4 hours exposure data and the Threshold Limit Value for an 8 hour weighted average in breathing air is 500 ppm with a Permitted Exposure Limit of 1800 mg/M3 (~ppm).

Studies of shoe repair folks suggest that long term chronic exposure at lower limits can have long term effects, because the liver converts n-hexane to Hexane 2.5 dione.  Their chronic exposure was many times what you would encounter in purging residuals left in oil that is below sensory threshold.

Besides NIOSH, we also have U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Food and Drug Administration, Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER), Center for Biologics Evaluation and Research (CBER) regulating what you can use and what you can leave behind:


They list n-Hexane as a class two solvent with 290 ppm concentration limits, and a total PDE of 290 mg/day.

The good news is that if you are out of the stink or taste, you are less than about .01% of TLV, but the bad news (?) is that although it is relatively non toxic, hexane still tastes like lighter fluid below toxicity levels, with our 130 ppm sensory threshold far below the Threshold Limit Value.

663 responses to this post.

  1. Posted by Mellow on July 8, 2016 at 3:18 PM

    Hey skunkpharm! I have recently made nearly pure thca powder in my cls by accident. it is 94.5% thca and I was trying to figure out how I may clean it further. Since purity is already so high and it is in crystalline form this should be relatively easy given the correct procedure. I have tried this saline/hexane wash before on some oil few years ago. Was thinking this may be a good experiment but I think the main impurity is oily so would probably migrate to the hexane layer. Any tips or suggestions would be great! Thank you! !


    • Posted by redturtle984 on July 8, 2016 at 5:43 PM

      Here is one techique that can remove any impurities soluable in water – specifically alpha pinene. In the video I am processing extract into a more refined product which I vape happily, and the video starts as the centrifuge of the isopropyl alcohol and extract mix are finish slinning the waxes out. I remove the liquid with a vac chamber but how do hou keep that sample from decarbing? My extract begins to decarb noticably with very little heat. At room temp it is constantly decarbing judging by the experiments with time lapse photos up close to see it. I would love to see photos!

      The process you see in the bid was copied from an old patent on removing alpha pinene from citrus oil meant for human consumption. In that patent they mention the same kind of azeotropic behavior shown here when using hexane and water as well as the primary patent application that soecified isopropyl alcohol at 91%. The video demonstrates my modification in that I force a separation at a 50% mix of water to iso.

      There are details to this too tme consummkng but I can tell you this process has been used by me for some time. It works for cleaning extract up. Hope it helps.


  2. Posted by D. Gold on July 1, 2016 at 11:24 AM

    I really like what you guys are doing. In my humble opinion, you are doing it absolutely right. I’m pretty much retired these days … maybe considering a bit of a comeback … who knows? If I can ever help in any way, let me know.
    D. Gold


  3. Posted by redturtle984 on May 15, 2016 at 1:49 PM

    The web says PAM is water soluable. This new vid I made this morning boils the extract and also makes the water a bit murky. Does this help? https://vimeo.com/166726729


  4. Posted by David Johnson on May 15, 2016 at 1:40 PM

    I’m wondering if it will be possible to remove pam cooking spray from a run of bho. The Pam was used to lubricate the blades on an automatic trimmer and contaminated the trim used for this particular extraction. If anyone has any knowledge of how this problem can be fixed, it would be greatly appreciated.


  5. Posted by Jason on April 5, 2016 at 9:46 PM

    I have a half pound of green wax, Maui Waui, it’s orange when looked at in the light. I think it was moonshine derived but not finished. I have some Everclear.
    I wanted to know the best way to clean the 8 oz of green wax. Can I put it in a jar of Eveclear in the sun for 2-3 hours, then rubberband 2-3 coffee filters on the jar and filter out the green Everclear?
    Should I use non ionized salt?
    Also wanted to polish BHO with Everclear. Will this work? What is the best way? May do it with an ounce or a pound, advice on both quanties would be great.


  6. Posted by Jeff on April 2, 2016 at 9:17 AM

    Do you have an email graywolf? I’m looking for an older link you posted to terps you bought off line.


  7. Posted by Strongbad22 on March 7, 2016 at 8:49 PM

    I’ve been fighting with this process and I’m trying to figure out exactly what I’m doing wrong or still need to do. I started with a bunch of old green oil that was made with older auto trim material so it picked up a ton of chlorophyll. I saturated the oil in ethanol, ran it through a vacuum assisted filter using a watman 1 filter, pulled out a ton of gunk, then dumped hexane and saturated salt water into the seperatory funnel as instructed, poured out the water and ethanol mixture, using the funnel, saving the hexane and terpine mixture that was the dark color on top, just like the picutres, and I have been running salt water though allllll day and the color isn’t getting any lighter.

    I wish I could post pictures, but what it looks like, is a perfectly clear big thick layer on bottom (of salt water) and a gunky, kinda fatty layer in the middle (I’m assuming this is the emulsion layer though I’m not entirely sure what that means because it wasn’t explained) and then the dark hexane mixture up top. I strain off the salt water and gunky middle layer.

    I saw that middle layer getting thinner and thinner and harder to see each time, as I felt like I got more out of it. To try and make that layer easier to see and remove I have tried heating up the salt water, and cooling it down. It seems like the colder I got the salt water, the more of that gunk I was able to pull out each time. But I’ve run a ton of washes through it and I’m still getting a gunk layer (only when cold) but the color of the hexane mixture isn’t getting lighter or more yellow at all. Any feedback would be hugely appreciated as I have about 3 and a half liters of extremely concentrated oil dissolved in ethanol that I’d like to keep running. Just feel like I may be doing something wrong….


    • There are limits to what you can wash out with brine and if you have a lot of chlorophyll, it isn’t really water soluble, but washes away in micelles, so it doesn’t come out easily.

      Anthrocyanin plant pigments are one of the prime culprits, and are about a ~C-30 molecule, in the same range as chlorophyll and plant waxes. Easiest to avoid extracting them in the first place by using subzero extraction techniques, but iff’n you are stuck with a bunch, you aren’t dead in the water.

      Pharmer Joe has successfully removed them using column chromatography, and with a Kugelrohr, Pharmgold Terp Trommel molecular still, as well as filtering through mixes of rare earths and clays.

      I just scanned through the site and it doesn’t look like Joe ever published his chromatography results, so I’ll publish something using a picture of his samples, to explain the issues with color and other non-targeted elements.



  8. Posted by Kirel on March 2, 2016 at 9:57 PM

    So I am working on extracting some lovely compounds from plant matter… only problem is I left it in alcohol for several days longer than expected. At this point, I have concentrated it down to a very potent, yet very dark matter. I have redissolved it into fresh ISO and have it in the freezer separating from a saline water infusion. My question here is can I use this method above to further remove the chlorophyl with white gas.. specifically Coleman camp fuel? I know it has other elements in it… but will these evaporate over time with winterization, or is it too dangerous to even try this method?


  9. Posted by Dakota on February 10, 2016 at 8:21 PM

    Question regarding Ethanol purging:

    If an extraction auto-budders on me, I tend to use an ethanol wash with Klean Xtract. My first step is adding roughly 60g of BHO to around 24 oz of Klean Xtract. Second, I let the substance dissolve around 80 degrees, with some agitation. Once dissolved, I place the mixture in a 0 degree freezer for 48 – 72 hours. After the fats and waxes have separated, I use a Whatman #1 Lab filter, accompanied with an unbleached coffee filter. and a vacuum assisted buchner funnel. Once the fats are extracted an separated, I let the extracted solvent evaporate around 90-95 degrees fahrenheit. Once the extraction has a syrupy consistency, I use a vacuum chamber to purge off the remaining alcohol, and this is where things get complicated. I notice the first pull down to -29.5Hg lets the extraction boil off very rapidly, then slows to a crawl. After I notice no bubbles forming (15min – 1 hr), I pressurize the chamber and pull a second purge. One thing I notice is it takes quite a long time for bubbling to become visible. After a day or 2 in the oven (around 95 degrees F) I consider it evaporated. When smoked or vaporized it has a wonderful taste, and also looks beautiful. I just cannot manage to get it to become a shatter consistency. Its also a thick honey texture, which is kind of a pain to work with. If I can be told a more effective way to evaporate the Ethanol, or even better a method of producing a hard shatter consistency with strictly ethanol? It would be a huge help to my career, thanks!

    QUICK READ: How can one obtain a shatter consistency with an ethanol wash/winterize, if not what is the best way to evaporate Ethanol? Is it possible to reverse the auto buddering process?


    • Posted by redturtle984 on February 11, 2016 at 2:39 PM

      The question assumes a lot. Shatter consistency is caused imo by impurities in the extract. How do I know? I have successfully purged to nearly pure so many grams of extract that my cupboards are overflowing with tiny plastic pucks and their lids lolz – AND I cleaned them out already!!! hehe.

      Here is how to easily purge the extract of all sorts of nasty stuff you didn’t know was in there…. This process assumes from personal experience two things:

      1) that a vaporizer, no matter the style, does not convert THC-A to the THC-YUMMY form that the body can use to speak with the animals and,
      2) THC does not significantly break down with the application of extreme heat so long as oxygen to oxidize the THC is present.

      I am absolutely certain, from personal experience that these two things are true. Here is a very short version of what I do to make my Pristine Oregon Pharmers World Class extract into a product that is vaguely fruity, makes DENSE foggy vapor, has zero, nil, no, and absolutely zed respiratory irritation even when held in a long time.

      And the resulting mind change from this product is absolutely the most premium experience a regular extract user can enjoy.

      Step One: SAFETY FIRST – remember, if you build a fire for a man you will keep him warm for a day, if you set that man on fire, he will be warm the rest of his life…

      Step Two: I load my raw extract into a ceramic cigarette. I stuff it in there real tight. I use a rod in the lip end to plug the cigarette and to hold it comforatbly from the heat.

      Step Three: My trusty lighter is held just off the end of the cigarette and both are held over a smooth cool glass surface.


      Step Four: I light the lighter and slowly allow the exrtact to run into the flame and drip down through the flame onto the glass. Boy Howdy!!!! the first trip through the flame it is quite a light show. It sputters and pops and crackles something fierce. After it is lit I turn the cigarette up so anything fluid drips out and I let the icky part flame off. The flame gets intense. The smoke is horrible so I don’t believe any THC is left at this point. It has all dropped down to the glass.

      Step Five: repeats several times. I use a metal pick to lift the extract up off the glass and drip it down through the flame several times until it no longer sputters and pops when I do so. Generally the whole process is about 15 minutes or less.

      What is left of the plate is black, and runny at room temp. I noted above how it inhales. I am positively certain that the product is fully decarboxylated and my oh my is it potent. It runs smooth and pure at this point and doesn’t snicker or pop when dropped through a flame (Bix). I have heated extract in the oven at 300 F in a glass container. It takes a LONG time for the decarboxylation to occur doing this judging visually. But, vaping the extract baked liked this turned me on to the fact I wasn’t inhaling fully converted THC. The mind change is unmistakable.

      I handle the oil using a medicine feeder for rodents I got at Petco. It’s a syringe that wont hurt a mouse lolz! A rice grain size vaped into my Vapir 1 bag fills the bag twice with a dense foggy cool sweet orgasmic vapor.

      I better go…the Vapir is getting cold. Remember, FINISH YOUR EXTRACT!!!! CHILDREN IN INDIA ARE GOING WITHOUT!!!


  10. Posted by Aaron Butkovich on January 30, 2016 at 7:38 AM

    Can neem oil be removed from butane extracted bho?


  11. Posted by Reptile77 on January 23, 2016 at 7:13 PM

    How can I clean up my wax if I bought it from a friend and it looks like poop soup and very hard to work with?


    • Posted by redturtle984 on January 29, 2016 at 8:14 AM

      dissolve it in rubbing alcohol completely. Let the mix settle for a few minutes then stir in non-iodized salt so it is a layer about a 1/4 thick or so on the bottom of the vessel (small tube or jar). Set aside and come back in 1/2 hour. The mix will clearly seperate into multiple layers. The layer that is amber and clear is the good stuff. The rest feels toxic when inhaled. I use a medicine dropper to remove the amber layer. Use a fan to evaporate off the alcohol (about 15 minutes) then place the almost dry extract on some cooking paper. Place this paper on a preheated cookie sheet (250F) and it will bubble briskly for several minutes. Remove when brisk bubbling is over. Place in freezer.

      Poof – extremely concentrated THC that vapes with zero irritation in the lungs and no hacking choking and so forth and…..it is the most potent form I have used. Extremely potent this way, likely owing to the possibility of DEEP lung inhalations without coughing. Good luck.


      • Are you using 70% ISO, thus taking advantage of the containment of water to dissolve the salt?

        …or not?


        • Posted by redturtle984 on January 29, 2016 at 8:55 AM

          70% iso and 30% water is what the label says. Rubbing alcohol is the label. Deadly poison if you drink it. A couple bucks at the Chevron mart. Rubbing alcohol cannot be separated by distillation – the water and alcohol won’t separate that way. It can however, be fractionalized by adding salt. The separation is obvious to a sighted person. There is a very small amount of salt left in the extract, because when I chew it the salt is detectable. Pleasant tasting frankly. Extract washed this way dispenses with the mediciney “Metholatum” taste. No matter the strain it always seems to taste fruity and pleasant.

          Salting alcohol is well known. Google has tons of stuff on it. What is not known is how effectively the separation of the extract components are when the extract is disolved in rubbing alcohol prior to salting it. The different chemical weights and properties seem to make them separate into distinct layers as the iso/water mix resolve into different layers (water on bottom). The waxes left over, by the way, work GREAT as a skin softener. They melt right in and are very pleasant to the touch, though they are highly irritating to the eyeball so washing hands is a good idea after rubbing it in.

          Finally, if you really want to see the separation, obtain a glass tube. Test tubes would work but I got mine at Petco down the street. The section for Gerbils and Hamsters has syring type eyedroppers for feeding medicine and test tube size tubes with rubber stoppers and a hole in them for watering the rodents. less than two busks and the have a clip to hold them vertically. Perfect for separations like this.


        • Could I potentially do this to a fresh extract as well to wash for chlorophyll so I don’t have to work with hexane at all? I’m highly allergic to fossil fuel based solvents (makes me break out from eczema, hereditary from my father), and am using this for a food grade extraction so salt in the mix is not an issue. I’m also allergic to chlorophyll so I’m trying to kill two birds with one stone and stick to alcohols which I react much better to. I’d add 3 parts distilled water to 7 parts Isopropanol from my material wash and just follow the same process for salting the water out once i’m done, repeating until I have to use the refractory index of the two fluids to tell them apart and look for that visible layer yea?


    • Posted by redturtle984 on January 29, 2016 at 9:18 AM

      I will post another way to “clean up” goopy wax or shatter. I already posted a very simple way to do this, however I am a stoner. This means my ability to be patient and wait only exist when I am stoned….lolz. So waiting for the rubbing alcohol to evaporate or not having any rubbing alcohol present, I will tell you another sure fire way to “clean up” small amounts of wax and shatter;

      I use a small glass square that I took out of a picture frame. The picture was my ex-spouse. I lit the picture on fire and warmed myself. This step isn’t essential, but it did seem to help.

      I take the glass which is cool to the touch and dab my goop (wax or shatter or scrapings) onto the glass which is held horizontal. Then I use either a battery power hot iron for wood burning craft, or a light to puddle the goop with heat so it is completely liquid and bubbling. Then I quickly turn the glass to vertical, and the part of the puddle that is “runniest” flows down a short distance as a “drip”.

      When held to the light the drip part of what remains is clear and amber. The “splat” part that held to the cool glass and did not run down when tipped is almost opaque and looks grainy like wax in a honey jar at the top. The bottom drip is scraped off and vaped – nearly zero irritation and yum yum yummy. Vaping the “splat” is an experience in hacking and choking.

      I have found that when holding a flame to bubble the puddle the bubbles will mostly stop after short time and the puddle “settles down”. Experience has proven to me that this is the moment to stop heating it and put turn it up for the drip to form. Otherwise the drip is a bit milky with wax and harsh. The amber, by the way, becomes pretty tough in consistency.

      I better wrap it up now….I have a bag that is just waiting for some vapor. Sweet amber dreams.


  12. Posted by Franky on January 21, 2016 at 8:36 AM

    What would happen if you put an oil extract through a reverse osmosis system? Thanks for your time


    • Posted by redturtle984 on January 21, 2016 at 9:35 AM

      You end up with Sisomso oil.😉


    • Reverse Osmosis is sort of like pumping a solution through a blotter paper straw. The flow keeps the filter membrane swept clean as it passes through, so the flow concentrates and the clean stuff weeps through to the outside.

      Simple filtration, even at that micron level, takes stuff out of suspension, but not out of solution. Micro filtration is the same thing, but uses a larger pore size, so might not clog as fast and I’ve installed industrial plate and frame micro-filtration plants down to 0.2 microns. They worked well for our purpose, and we cleaned them when they clogged, by alternating a hot aqueous NaOH solution and a HNO3 solution, to break organic bonds.



  13. Posted by Seb on January 18, 2016 at 9:00 AM


    I am having a great deal of difficulty acquiring non-denatured alcohol for the scrubbing of the hexane, what other solvents can be used to get rid of the last of the hexane, or is using denatured alcohol (denatured with MEK boiling point 79.6 C) ok? Thanks


    • Posted by redturtle984 on January 18, 2016 at 9:48 AM

      You can make nearly pure iso propyl alcohol for pennies by salting down rubbing alcohol. I have done this many times. The water and alcohol separate and with care there will be no salt in the iso. I suggest if you try to read up on it first. My results came by googling “salting down alcohol”. It is interesting to note that rubbing alcohol, being a mix of pure water and iso, cannot be fractionalized through evaporation. By googling, I learned (contrary to my vast knowledge beforehand lolz) that some things, like iso and water, cannot be separated by distillation. Salting down is a method of fractionalization for this solution. I also note that salt, iso, water, oxygen, heat, cold, sand, dust, and aspirin all share a common trait; in sufficient quantities they will all kill us. Perhaps tongue in cheek, but I am more or less making fun of the paranoia we have in using chemicals with tech names, when in fact we ourselves are just a bunch of chemicals.

      For iso, it takes (I am told) 15 grams of iso to really cause hurt most sane persons wouldn’t want. This is VASTLY more than our senses will detect, and is also VASTLY more than most bodies will ingest before violently regurgitating. I do not take lightly the handling of chemicals, but I will not either toss away opportunity to improve my existence because of fear.

      No fear. No shame. We were right all along. Rock on Oregon. Go Ducks!


      • Posted by Seb on January 18, 2016 at 4:30 PM

        Thanks for the reply, but when I mentioned ‘denatured alcohol’ I meant ethanol, not IPA, incidentally, I got 99.9% IPA off ebay, nice and easy, nice and cheap. Ethanol however, is a very different story, being as I am in the UK and Everclear is not on sale here (nor do we have a limey equivalent).


        • Posted by redturtle984 on January 21, 2016 at 9:47 AM

          Nice and cheap is great! However, I am impatient so I can just stroll down to the quick mart on the corner and get rubbing alcohol. I believe from multiple experiments that I have conducted with $1000’s of my own money and my own legally obtained extract here in Oregon, that this is the quickest, safest, and cheapest way to clean the extract for ultra purity. I find that IPA cleans up dispensary extracts quickly, safely, and from this simple process I obtain nearly pure THC/CBN/CBD/ terpenes etc. When I clean up 80%-90% lab tested extract (mostly wax removal) with IPA I am left with extremely pure and pristine THC, which leaves nearly zero residue in my vaperizor. I can even take the extract so cleaned up and when placed on a cool glass surface can seperate the components easily with a flame above the goop and a tilt to the surface. The goop will run down the cool glass and become solid as each component in the goop cools to the point of this phase transition from liquid to solid (more or less).

          It is a sort of thin film chromatography separation and works surprisingly well for seperating the components of an extract. Easy to visually identify each substance mostly by color this way. EXTREMELY potent when captured in a Vapir party bag. Orders of magnitude more potent than ground up herb in the unit which the unit is really meant for. I modified the screen a bit to accomodate extract.

          Inhale this dense vapor, and you might even talk to the Man on the Moon. He is surprisingly open to conversation….

          May Life not life on you too often.

          Now…can limes extract oil?😉


          • Posted by Seb on January 22, 2016 at 8:26 AM

            So just to check in case I’m being a bit thick… IPA can be used to purge hexane from an extract instead of the ethanol mentioned in the above article, bearing in mind the less-than 0.1% water content of my IPA?

          • Posted by Seb on January 22, 2016 at 8:28 AM

            (I know the water content of the IPA makes no difference to the purging of hexane, I just mentioned it for info on the grade of the IPA)

    • You can get 95% grain alcohol shipped to your door at http://www.culinarysolvent.com. Its made specifically for extractions and concentrates.


  14. Posted by modervader@gmail.com on January 18, 2016 at 8:22 AM

    Quick question oh wise one, it is difficult at times to purge the extract before heat and agitation render it waxy and sealed in. Kleen xtract has been the wash to get it back into a “purgable” consistency. How long should i wait before the ethanol is gone, always seems to have a slight smell to it.

    Thank you sir or miss!


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