Hexane Honey Oil

Ever thought of using N-Hexane for extraction or alchemy? At the skunk pharm we use an HPLC reagent grade hexane, which we acquire from the local scientific supply store, for a number of things.

Like butane, hexane is a simple alkane, but it has two more carbon atoms and four more hydrogen’s, which makes it completely insoluble in water. Pentane, with five carbons in the chain, is the first completely insoluble alkane.

It’s longer chain gives it a higher specific gravity and higher boiling point than butane. Hexane boils at 69C/156.2F, versus -0.6C/30.9F for butane, which makes it more difficult to purge.

It can be purged under heat and vacuum using thin film techniques, or simply washed in ethanol, which boils at 78C/172.4F.

Our sensory perception threshold for hexane is 30ppm and OSHA TWA limits for breathing it 8 hours, is 500 ppm, so we can detect its gasoline like taste far below TLV.

Hexane is commonly used to produce pharmaceuticals and even food products, and is not Mother’s Milk, but the point is moot, as it is not left in amounts that are toxic.

There is a difference between trace amounts and toxic doses, because poison is in the dosage. Even Oxygen is a toxin at over 75% atmosphere and you are just as dead as from an over dose of any substance.

So what are the facts about hexane? One is that if hexane is present at levels as low as 30ppm, it tastes exactly like gasoline.

Since concern starts at 250 ppm for chronic and nearly continuous exposure, our senses are adequate to protect us from exposure to toxic levels.

So lets see what the governing authorities think about it, while paying attention to how the dosage rates compare to levels less than 30 parts per millionth:

SECTION 11 – TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION

CAS# 110-54-3: MN9275000
LD50/LC50:
CAS# 110-54-3:

Draize test, rabbit, eye: 10 mg Mild;
Inhalation, mouse: LC50 = 150000 mg/m3/2H;
Inhalation, rat: LC50 = 48000 ppm/4H;
Inhalation, rat: LC50 = 627000 mg/m3/3M;
Oral, rat: LD50 = 25 gm/kg;

Carcinogenicity:

CAS# 110-54-3: Not listed by ACGIH, IARC, NTP, or CA Prop 65.

Epidemiology: Occupational polyneuropathy has resulted from hexane exposures as low as 500 ppm, but the minimum levels of n-hexane that are neurotoxic in humans haven’t been established.

Nearly continuous exposure of animals at 250 ppm has caused neurotoxic effects.

Teratogenicity: No evidence of teratogenicity or embryotoxicity in anmial studies with hexane.

Fetotoxicity has been observed in the presence of maternal toxicity.

Reproductive Effects: Severe testicular damage has been observed in rats exposed to hexane at concentrations which have produced other significant toxicity.

Although sub-neuro toxic doses of its principle toxic metabolite, 2,5-hexanedione, can induce progressive testicular toxicity in rats, there have been no reports of human sterility or other reproductive toxicity associated with n-hexane exposures.

Mutagenicity: Positive results (chromosomal damage in the bone marrow cells) obtained for rats exposed by inhalation to n-hexane.

Neurotoxicity: n-Hexane is a mild irritant and CNS depressant in acute exposure, but its principal effects are damage to the sensory and motor peripheral nerves, particularly in chronic exposure.

Moving to ease of use, because of its insolubility in water, you can soak plant material in hexane without picking up water solubles.  I have soaked as long as 12 hours.

Using hexane requires close attention to safety issues, as it is highly flammable and even lower explosive limits than butane when used in an unventilated area.

Hexane’s lower explosive limits is 1.2% of atmosphere, and its upper explosive limits are 7.7, as compared to lower limits of 3.3% for ethanol and 1.8% for butane. Except for well ventilated lab conditions, hexane extraction and alchemy is best done outdoors, with a fan blowing away and dispersing the vapors as they are given off.

Pentane and Hexane are the components of light naphtha, or white gasoline, and should be treated with the same care and respect.

Needless to say that it a no smoking or toking activity, so leave the lighter and smokes out of reach, lest you reach for them automatically.

Besides open flame, static sparks can ignite the fumes, so don’t do hexane extractions wearing plastic clothes, especially on cold dry days.

Using glass wear to contain highly flammable liquids carries drop and splash dangers, which I am going to draw your attention to, but confess that I routinely use lab glass wear with flammables in it and that the hexane itself usually comes in a glass jug.

A stainless steel container for the soak portion of the process, could achieve the same effects however, without the same breakage danger.

Ambient temperature is important, and hexane has a relatively high vapor pressure of 151mm Hg @ 25C/77F, so it is important to keep the mixture relatively cool for long soaks or use a vented container to control pressure buildup.

We use hexane for both extraction and cannabis alchemy. Because it is relatively expensive, it is usually more cost effective to do the initial extraction with another less expensive solvent and use a lesser volume of hexane to polish it afterwards.

For extraction we simply fill a jar about 2/3rd full of material that we have broken up to about coarse rolling size, and fill the jar to the 3/4 level with hexane. We shake well, loosen the lid to release the pressure, seal it again, and set aside.   We periodically repeat the shake and pressure relief steps, for up to 12 hours.

At the end of the soak, we pour the mixture in a strainer, and press the material to force as much hexane out of the plant material as possible. We then filter through a coffee filter or vacuum filter using a Wattman # 1.

You can do the initial purge of the hexane by simply setting it aside in a pie plate to evaporate, and can speed that up by setting the pie plate in hot water and blowing air over it, if you aren’t in a dusty setting.

You can also boil off the hexane in a double boiler, with either hot water or hot oil as the medium in the pot, and can speed that up with vacuum. See attached pictures of thin film vacuum purging, as well as a ghetto rig in a fruit jar:

That brings us back to final purge, and as I noted above, if you don’t have vacuum equipment, final purging can also be done by washing in ethanol. Washing is done by re-dissolving the raw HHO in ethanol and boiling the ethanol off. The higher boiling point of the ethanol and the scrubbing action of the alcohol molecules boiling off, will take the remaining hexane molecules with it, while keeping the process temperature below 173F.

Re-dissolving in ethanol also allows the interim step of winterizing, by which you place the ethanol HHO mixture in the freezer for a couple of days until the waxes coagulate and can be filtered out, before evaporating away the alcohol.

While it can be used for extractions, where hexane really shines, is cannabis alchemy. For instance, you can extract the cannabinoids with ISO, Methanol, or Denatured alcohol and after reducing the volume of the alcohol through evaporation, when it reaches a convenient and economical handling volume, mix it with equal parts of hexane and super saturated salt water.

If you agitate that and place it in a separatory funnel to separate, the hexane will rise to the top with the cannabinoids and the water and alcohol mixture will sink to the bottom, where they can be bled off. See picture of separatory funnel, and check out our page on polishing extracts for more details.

Lastly, we use hexane to isomerize or make cannabis acetate. That involves reflux boiling the hexane cannabis oil mixture in sulfuric acid, or acetic anhydride.

More on that in Joe’s Cannabis Acetate thread.

148 responses to this post.

  1. Hmm is anyone else having problems with the images on this blog loading?
    I’m trying to determine if its a problem on my end
    or if it’s the blog. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply

  2. Posted by Joe C on July 24, 2014 at 6:12 PM

    Hi SkunkPharma’s… Thanks to your efforts, i’ve been making polished BHO for about 6 months & while is great. i find it lacking in potency. I’ve been advised that i will get a more psychoactive end product if i extract using RSO method with a product called Shellite (lite naptha, i believe) … I’m unable to email anonymously so i was wondering if you’d be so kind as to check over the MSDS link -> http://www.recochem.com.au/files/downloads/Shellite_Sep11.pdf & reply to wether it maybe ok to use?? Thanks !!!

    Reply

  3. Hurrah! In the end I got a blog from where I be able to in fact obtain valuable data
    concerning my study and knowledge.

    Reply

  4. […] unsafe and could be toxin. Hexane is used for food and pharmaceuticals. This link shows the specs: Hexane Honey Oil | Skunk Pharm Research LLC it shows you the type that is used. Only you would use the RSO method which is similar to mine. […]

    Reply

  5. Posted by kevin on January 17, 2014 at 1:52 PM

    Hello Gray Wolf, I am looking for a way to make the purest cannabis oil for cancer, I remember reading a post by your good self and I think it was the ‘freeze everything quick wash hexane’ can you verify this? and also point me in the direction of the post? thank you. ps it was not on ommp pay it forward it was on another forum. thanks again, KTD

    Reply

  6. Hello :-)
    Is N-Hexane 95% CP grade (not HPLC) is good enough ?

    Thank you
    Gil

    Reply

  7. […] It comes up here, scroll to the last photos you'll see a preparatory funnel. http://skunkpharmresearch.com/hexane…n-and-alchemy/ The hole thing smells of concentrated hydrosol so I dunno the slime from the water. What I do know […]

    Reply

  8. […] easy to find, pay attention to what type to use. There are MANY great tips on this site ! Enjoy. Hexane Honey Oil | Skunk Pharm Research LLC […]

    Reply

  9. Posted by motooil on November 5, 2013 at 8:35 AM

    Whoever said “stay off the net. for info & learn from a homie is full of it” . Awesome info !!! I’ve been using Rick Simpson method with Acetone (100% pure-allegedly) & (ISO 99.8). Used Acetone for a couple of months because couldn’t find 99.8 ISO right away. I’ve been researching better methods and found many but never explained in detail with the knowledge and pics of this site (Props to you guys for giving up your skill sets !!!).. I’ve been dosing for 1 1/2 years with ISO 7/8th of the time. Heck, it took me all that time to learn how to dose the correct way using cannabis concentrated oil (without becoming euphoric taking larger doses for med purposes (although that can be a good thing)! Cooked with the rice cooker (modified the tip over feature) and finishing with a plate warmer. I have now replaced the rice cooker with an induction portable cooktop (temp control is much more adjustable). Looking back from my 1st batch to now, its came a long way…lol. I’ve gotten my oil down fairly well but always looking for improvement. I’m old school in age and remember toke’n “hash oil” (black) and ‘honey oil’ back in the early 70’s and always preferred honey oil for its cleaner look, smell and taste. Looks like I’ve found it here. It might seem I’ve progressed slow, but, learning to grow @ the same time and all the set up time plus $, but, I’ve had my best check up in 25 yrs (4 heart attacks). Wished I would of found info this good when I started. Just love the way you guys explain things (I’m far from a lab tech, but, not afraid to jump in and give it a go, using safety of course) from chem stats converting it into layman terminology. I’m absolutely STOKED with your site. It is so refreshing to get great intell. THANK YOU SO MUCH !!! Getting back to more learning.

    When I first logged in to the site it said if I would like to donate for the cause…where did it go…lol. G/B

    Reply

  10. Posted by Mr.Niceguy on October 15, 2013 at 3:28 PM

    First off You guys rock for your awesome contributions!

    Secondly, I was wondering if someone could help me understand the differences in hexane VS hexanes? Can hexanes be used in place of n-hexane? I see it contains 50ppm sulfur amongst other things.

    Also, I remember reading some of your stuff that suggests older material that has had time to naturally decarboxylate may lean on the sappy side. Have you any new findings on being able to get a higher viscosity in the end, preferably crumble?

    And lastly, does a 2:3 bho to hexane ratio sound about right? Like 4g bho to 6g/8.6ml hexane, and if so dose that conversion work all the way up to a couple oz’s? Whats the most you’d recommend running in a L separator funnel?

    Thank You all for your time and knowledge!

    Reply

    • There are a lot of 6 carbon chain hydrocarbons, some of which aren’t nice. I would stay with HPLC grade n-Hexane or better, unless you have a MSDS spelling out exactly what those hexanes are and have looked them up.

      I’ve been told that you can eventually get a decarboxylated oil to wax up, but I haven’t tried.

      I haven’t ever determined a ration for Hexane extraction, I just fill the jar 2/3 to 3/4 full of material and fill it the rest of the way with hexane, leaving about an inch for shake room.

      Reply

      • Posted by Mr.Niceguy on October 21, 2013 at 12:43 PM

        The hexane/ brine wash we tried turned out to be a failure. Our variables that could be throwing it off are using acs reagent grade hexanes as to hexane and the time and amount of washes needed to desired consistence. Should the wash take days of multiple washes? It is the bottom layer of water let out after 10min or so of separation time to get the 3 layers? appreciate any insights into the process you see we could be missing.

        Reply

  11. Posted by Tom on August 17, 2013 at 3:01 PM

    Hello, I’m new here so I hope it’s okay to jump right in.
    I have a question regarding grades of Hexane. Is a technical grade suitable to use as a solvent? I purchased a 5 gallon can of tech grade a while back for extraction, Univar being the manufacturer. The cost is about the same as 99% ISO at $125.00 for the can.
    But seeing that you use a reagent grade it got me to thinking that the tech grade solvent may not be purified enough to safely use? I remember Rick Simpson saying that he would buy light Naphtha ( which is called Hexane in the states I believe ) by the drum from a petroleum supplier. I imagine that would be lesser than a reagent grade to be affordable…
    I’ve learned a ton from this site and thanks for all that you do,

    Tom

    Reply

    • It should have a cert of analysis with the tolerance’s for each of the contaminates. Its up to you what you are comfortable using as a solvent and possibly ingesting. Just make educated decision’s when taking

      Reply

    • Check the cert of analysis for unacceptable contaminates. Neither are “food grade” so its really a matter of what you are willing to tolerate if left behind. Both grades are definitely a step in the right direction compared to Namptha. Refined Namptha in the state’s is pet ether.

      Reply

    • Posted by ketones on December 8, 2013 at 9:24 AM

      Hi, naptha is NOT hexane. It is petroleum distillate which means that while it does likely contain hexane (and, more exactly, hexanes) it also contains other hydrocarbons (paraffins, olefins, napthenes/aromatics.) These compounds are more toxic and have higher boiling points.

      Naptha should absolutely not be used.

      The higher the grade hexane you can get the better, likely anything that is in hexanes or non-HPLC grade hexane is similarly low boiling and should be removed with an appropriate amount of washing/purging–but you get what you pay for.

      Reply

  12. Posted by JP on August 16, 2013 at 10:32 AM

    Hi GW, I may be in the wrong place for this post so I apologise in advance. I’m new to this procedure of making oil and am just totally confused as to what I need to do. I’m located in Ireland so getting equipment and solvents is very difficult here so I’m limited in what I can get my hands on. After reading this entire post and the different methods used can I ask if hexane can be used in this method:https://www.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/334801926611457/timeline/story?ut=3&hash=7180875461232508646&wstart=0&wend=1378018799&pagefilter=1&ustart&__user=100003697020689 Would following these steps produce a decent oil? Is there anything different that you would do here or wouldn’t do. I was curious as to why the bud and alcohol is frozen, is this nessacery. The distiller I can get is the same as in the video but it’s rated at 800watt, would that heat it up to much. Sorry for all the questions but I just want to do it right first time.
    Cheers

    Reply

    • You can do a hexane extraction without freezing the material or chilling the hexane, because hexane is non polar and mostly insoluble in water. It will do a good job, but I would be leery of using that distiller without knowing more about how its electrical components are set up.

      Hexane boils at 68-69C/155-156F, so no problems with the boiling range, but it is as flammable as gasoline, so the vapors are highly explosive.

      We distill off hexane in the lab using a simple boiling flask and water cooled condenser, which might be a safer way.

      Reply

      • Posted by JP on August 17, 2013 at 10:23 AM

        Thanks for the reply GW. In other comments in this thread people talk about using the hexane to do the extraction and then letting a fan blow over it until it evaporates, is it ready to be ingested after that or would sitting it on a hotplate on a low setting for a few hours be needed.

        Reply

        • A hexane extraction is harder than butane or ethanol to purge below sensory threshold, and at the very least, the pool needs to stay liquid so that the remaining solvent molecules can escape.

          Without vacuum, we typically have to redissolve in ethanol a couple of times and evaporate away the ethanol, to purge the remaining hexane.

          Reply

          • Posted by ketones on December 8, 2013 at 9:26 AM

            This is correct. Redissolving in a nontoxic solvent like ethanol (everclear or other high % spirit, you don’t want to add water) several times, stirring, and evaporating will remove residual solvent. You’ll also lose volatile flavor components of the oil but so it goes, thats why something like supercritical CO2 is preferred to a traditional solvent extraction.

          • Tis true that extracting the volatile monoterpenes is easy with any number of solvents, but holding on to them during purge becomes more problematic the higher the boiling point of the solvent being used. Butane only has four carbons in the chain, while hexanes have six, so the Van der Waal forces and boiling point will be higher.

            One of the issues with the monoterpenes, is that they are alcohols, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, esters, and carboxylic acids themselves, with very high vapor pressures. It is because of this high vapor pressure at even ambient temperatures and far below their boiling points, that they can fill a room with molecules that collide with your noses. That is how skunky weed stinks up a room or car, even double bagged.

            The same heat that drives off the solvent, does doubly so with the monoterpenes.

            Hexane also extracts non polar waxes, we typically also winterize it using ethanol, so it gets a double whammy from a solvent evaporation standpoint, and tastes primarily of sesquiterpenes and the diterpene cannabinoids.

            That is one of the reasons that we use hexane for alchemy, but not for extractions other than in class as a demonstration. It

      • Posted by Tom on October 16, 2013 at 9:30 AM

        GW, You mentioned using a boiling flask and an condenser to reclaim the hexane.
        I plan on going this route and was wondering what size flask and condenser should I buy? Also, what would you recommend as far as a heater? I typically make batches of oil from 1/4 to 1lb of dry starting material. Just want to get this right the first time so I have to only order once!

        Thanks
        Tom

        Reply

        • We don’t do much volume or huge batches, so we use a one liter flat bottom boiling flask, with a 24/40 taper on a stirring hotplate. You could also use a hot oil bath or sand bath or heating mantle to eliminate hot spots.

          We use a distillation elbow, with a 24/40 taper, and a Allihn or Graham, or Liebig condenser with the same taper, to reclaim the hexane and circulate coolant from a five gallon pail of ice water.

          Reply

  13. Posted by madfarmer on August 12, 2013 at 5:54 PM

    Well as we spoke, I can’t get hex to make a wax in the vac oven, but can with butane. O well I like hex better. ? temp will hex need under vac to be well purged let say 28 on the vac gage. How could I send u pics of my rig. I love my vac funnel and watman #1 filter speeds things up XXX fast. Thanks yours MADFARMER

    Reply

  14. Posted by clean freak on August 9, 2013 at 9:58 PM

    What materials are safe to use with hexane? I have a stainless steel trim pro with rubber fingers and a rubber gasket that I would like to clean. Will the steel and rubber hold up? Also what type of brush would be best? Thank you.

    Reply

  15. Posted by Zac on July 24, 2013 at 11:02 AM

    Thanks for a great site! I was using crown VM&P naphtha for extracting and I checked the msds and it said it contained benzene in less than 101 ppm. They say that’s not hazardous but I don’t know if in terms of honey oil if that cause’s any effect, is any level of benzene safe for making honey oil? Do you know how that would compare to a cigarette?

    Reply

  16. Posted by Madfarmer on July 15, 2013 at 4:31 PM

    Can I make a wax using hex and a vac oven, like with butane? Thanks yours the Madfamer

    Reply

  17. Posted by Sam on July 15, 2013 at 12:29 AM

    First of I would like to compliment this website as it truly does bring a scientific perspective to a subject that is where that is stereotypically(and usually for good reason) untrue..Also THC Acetate does seem quite interesting, and I look forwards the syhthesis of it once my first crop of oil is obtained, the mixing my hobbies of chemistry and cannabis, that’s enough to put a smile on my face. For someone of limited means it is of fair importance to have the best possible yield of oil to amount of cannabis used(a rather common goal I would say.) Methods of increasing yield are fairly obvious, increasing surface area, increasing temperature of solvent(through reflux), and finally increasing the time spent extracting. However what I a would like to know is how important each of these are..would I be wasting my time in grinding and refluxing it, or could I get comparable yields with just a 12 or 24 hour soak at room temp with what seemed to be just whole buds in the above picture.
    Is hexane an aggressive enough solvent to (largely) complete the dissolution of THC out of marijuana buds without external heating in a 12 hour period is what I’m really wondering.
    Thank you for your time, any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply

  18. Sorry for my English.I get pleasure from, result in I found just what I was having a look for. You’ve ended my 4 day long hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye

    Reply

  19. Posted by Jason Stevens on July 4, 2013 at 4:49 PM

    Still worry of the trace amounts of any chemical process and its effects over time.
    As there are need be 10-12 year studies of medications oils and an adverse effects upon the human body.
    As it seems more and more now adays there is no real medical regulation on these new forms of medications..

    Reply

    • There have been exhaustive studies by NIOSH on the solvents used, but the studies on the effects of cannabis essential oils are harder to find.

      If you want to see what NIOSH found on the various solvents, check out their standards listed on the solvents MSDS sheet. I’ve also quoted their standards at various points in the extraction threads.

      NIOSH is who tests chemicals with animals, accumulates human forensic data, and sets the permissible exposure limits for chemicals used in industry. That includes long term exposure.

      If you have a few hours to devote to reading studies, Granny Storm Crow’s list is a little like taking a sip out of a fire hose. Check her out at http://skunkpharmresearch.com/granny-storm-crows-2012-list/ on studies in general on cannabis uses.

      Reply

    • Posted by ketones on December 8, 2013 at 9:30 AM

      The use of this kind of extraction and solvent is ubiquitous in all kinds of manufacturing and production of consumer goods. With some googling for things like residual solvents you can learn more. Did you know that most decaffeinated coffee is produced via extraction with hexane?

      Reply

  20. […] extraction method. The comments and questions following the article are full of information. Hexane Honey Oil | Skunk Pharm Research LLC Reply With […]

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  21. Posted by mike on May 24, 2013 at 11:11 AM

    My friend uses a trimming machine that trims fresh leaving wet trim. last year we failed at drying it out properly and everything molded. Do you think we could run hexane with fresh material or any advice.

    Reply

    • Yes, hexane will work with fresh material. It is more forgiving that either butane or pentane.

      It will work best if your freeze the material and chill the hexane first, because of all the ruptured cells from the trim pro, that expose the water soluble chlorophyll binding compounds and the chlorophyll.

      Reply

      • Posted by mike on May 28, 2013 at 2:06 PM

        First of all your my hero, If I have a good year some donations will be headed your way! (are they accepted?)

        Ok so from what I gather a low temp vacuum purge gives the best results. so quantity speed and recovery efficiency considered what would be my best choice?
        A: attach a pump to recovery side of still.
        B: use a diaphragm pump with a diy vacuum chamber maybe small condenser
        C: MK V Terp. once you finish it
        Note I already purchased pumps for MKiiia and plan on purchasing a kit from SF when they’re available.

        Reply

        • Thanks for the good thoughts bro!

          Yes, SPR accepts organically grown donations for the cancer program. We will extract and pass them on for free.

          The purge temperature depends on what you’re making. For oral meds, we us a 250F hot oil bath purge and decarboxylate temperature, but for vaporizing shatter, we vacuum purge at -29.5″ Hg and 115F.

          The best purges are achieved in thin films, so the cheapest way would be a heat-able vacuum chamber. If you are running much volume, a Rotovape followed by a vacuum oven, would be my choice.

          The Mk V runs larger batches than the Mk IIIA, and is automated, but the product that it produces, will still require final purging.

          Reply

          • I just saw your recommendation of a Rotovape for large-volume thin film purging. How would one then remove the extract after it is done purging? Especially in the case of vaporizing shatter where the product is not too viscous at room temp.

          • You have to remove the solution from the boiling flask before it reaches that consistency, and finish it off outside the Rotovap.

            I have a 10″ drum style rotary evaporator designed, which both ends can be removed from for cleaning, but have yet to build it.

  22. Posted by Dna on May 23, 2013 at 2:23 PM

    Along with everyone else, thank you so much for sharing your brilliance with the world. Thank you for this golden treasure trove of priceless information.

    A question if I may,
    Can hexane be used safely in the prescribed Rick Simpson method of extraction? Planning on using a stainless steel rice cooker but I read about someone using a fondu cooker and was wondering if this was for temperature control as the rice cookers I’ve found will automatically reach abouts of 212F. Is this to hot?

    Thanks,
    Dru

    Reply

    • Thanks for the good thoughts! Bon appetite!

      Hexane will extract well using Rick Simpson Methods.

      I prefer to use a fondue pot of hot canola oil, in which I set a stainless container of cannabis oil. A rice cooker won’t get hot enough to optimally decarboxylate.

      Reply

      • Posted by Dna on May 27, 2013 at 7:55 PM

        Thank you for your advice! If I could call upon your input once more regarding my materials and process? My main question ultimately is this: Will this give me safe and potent medicine? I have tried to figure this out as best I can but feel I am missing something (or perhaps making it more difficult for myself?). Anyone feel free to chime in. Simplification, extension, corrections, and constructive criticism very much appreciated.

        list of materials:

        *Jar with lid

        *Hexane: http://www.advance-scientific.com/Properties.asp?Catalog_No=HP682&ProductDescription=Hexane,%20HPLC%20Grade

        *Funnel: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Funnel-removable-Strainer/dp/B007NL3K38/ref=sr_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369622961&sr=1-23&keywords=strainers+stainless+steel

        *Unbleached large coffee filter

        *Strainer x2 medium/small: http://www.amazon.com/Kuchenprofi-Stainless-2-Inch-Classic-Strainer/dp/B00288OPG2/ref=sr_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369624413&sr=1-23&keywords=stainless+steel+mesh+colander

        *Stainless steel cooking bowl

        *Fondue machine: http://www.amazon.com/Nostalgia-Electrics-FPS-200-Electric-Fondue/dp/B005QSI52G

        *Stainless steel measuring cup:

        *Electric burner: http://www.amazon.com/Waring-SB30-1300-Watt-Portable-Single/dp/B000I14C7I/ref=pd_sbs_k_1

        Process:

        * break flowers apart by hand to reduce their surface space and remove the stems.
        * freeze pulverized material in freezer and chill the hexane in the fridge
        * fill jar 2/3 with material; fill same jar 3/4 with hexane
        * shake lightly and burp pressure; repeat shake and burp every 2 hours for 12 hours

        * with care, pouring the mixture into a funnel with a coffee filter in it and a strainer on top of the filter so the mixture is caught in the strainer
        Setting a second smaller strainer on top of the mixture to press the remaining hexane into a stainless steel bowl.

        * fondue pot filled to appropriate level with canola oil set about 160F; place bowl with mixture into fondue pot. boil off noticeable hexane

        -Decarboxylation-

        (Option A)-> add a few drops of purified water and turn up heat of the fondue machine to 226F for 108 minutes occasionally stirring the substance.

        pour substance into a stainless steel measuring cup and set besides a high powered fan with the air current blowing over the cup. 45-90 min. pour remainder out of the bowl and into a measuring cup, add drops of water, place measuring cup onto electric burner set at 226F with a high powered fan blowing over the measuring cup for 108 minutes<-(end B)

        -Finishing-

        * cup is lightly reheated and substance pulled into oral syringes. (like the RSO method with no further purging, will this be safe? Seems to me it may not be?)

        or

        * cup is set in the vacuum purger and purged (how long I am unsure, 30-45 minutes?); substance is then ready for most usably convenient packaging

        Thank you again for your kindness and patience
        Love & Peace
        Dna

        Reply

        • Posted by Dna on May 28, 2013 at 4:07 PM

          Isn’t it interesting that no matter how many times you read something before you post it, it isn’t until afterwards that you catch a mistake?

          to clear up my post a bit, this section was suppose to appear like so…

          -Decarboxylation-

          (Option A)-> add a few drops of purified water and turn up heat of the fondue machine to 226F for 108 minutes occasionally stirring the substance.

          pour substance into a stainless steel measuring cup and set besides a high powered fan with the air current blowing over the cup. 45-90 min. pour remainder out of the bowl and into a measuring cup, add drops of water, place measuring cup onto electric burner set at 226F with a high powered fan blowing over the measuring cup for 108 minutes<-(end B)

          Reply

        • Submitted on 2013/05/27 at 7:55 PM | In reply to Skunk Pharm Research,LLC.

          Thank you for your advice! If I could call upon your input once more regarding my materials and process? My main question ultimately is this: Will this give me safe and potent medicine? I have tried to figure this out as best I can but feel I am missing something (or perhaps making it more difficult for myself?). Anyone feel free to chime in. Simplification, extension, corrections, and constructive criticism very much appreciated.

          list of materials:

          *Jar with lid
          *Hexane: http://www.advance-scientific.com/Properties.asp?Catalog_No=HP682&ProductDescription=Hexane,%20HPLC%20Grade

          American Scientific sold us 4 liter bottles for about $90 ea of HPLC 95% grade.

          *Funnel: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Funnel-removable-Strainer/dp/B007NL3K38/ref=sr_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369622961&sr=1-23&keywords=strainers+stainless+steel
          That will work.

          *Unbleached large coffee filter

          *Strainer x2 medium/small: http://www.amazon.com/Kuchenprofi-Stainless-2-Inch-Classic-Strainer/dp/B00288OPG2/ref=sr_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369624413&sr=1-23&keywords=stainless+steel+mesh+colander

          Probably a little small. Try a chinoise at http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/358283/?catalogId=46&bnrid=3120901&cm_ven=Google_PLA&cm_cat=Cooks'_Tools&cm_pla=Colanders_&_Strainers&cm_ite=Chinois_Bouillon_Strainer_%7C_Williams-Sonoma&amp;

          srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=31-152901558-2

          *Stainless steel cooking bowl

          *Fondue machine: http://www.amazon.com/Nostalgia-Electrics-FPS-200-Electric-Fondue/dp/B005QSI52G

          I can’t tell how sensitive the controls are in the 250F range and lower. I use a Cuisinart.

          *Stainless steel measuring cup:

          *Electric burner: http://www.amazon.com/Waring-SB30-1300-Watt-Portable-Single/dp/B000I14C7I/ref=pd_sbs_k_1

          1300 Watts is adequate, but it is most likely not accurate in the 85F to 115F range.

          Process:
          * break flowers apart by hand to reduce their surface space and remove the stems.
          * freeze pulverized material in freezer and chill the hexane in the fridge

          Not necessary to freeze using non polar Hexane.

          * fill jar 2/3 with material; fill same jar 3/4 with hexane
          * shake lightly and burp pressure; repeat shake and burp every 2 hours for 12 hours
          * with care, pouring the mixture into a funnel with a coffee filter in it and a strainer on top of the filter so the mixture is caught in the strainer
          Setting a second smaller strainer on top of the mixture to press the remaining hexane into a stainless steel bowl.
          * fondue pot filled to appropriate level with canola oil set about 160F; place bowl with mixture into fondue pot. boil off noticeable hexane

          Regardless of what you set the temperature at, the mixture won’t exceed the boiling point of hexane, until it is gone. I would set the oil bath at 250F and watch the solvent bubbles dissapear and monitor the CO2 bubbles for level of decarboxylation.

          -Decarboxylation-
          (Option A)-> add a few drops of purified water and turn up heat of the fondue machine to 226F for 108 minutes occasionally stirring the substance.
          pour substance into a stainless steel measuring cup and set besides a high powered fan with the air current blowing over the cup. 45-90 min. pour remainder out of the bowl and into a measuring cup, add drops of water, place measuring cup onto electric burner set at 226F with a high powered fan blowing over the measuring cup for 108 minutes<-(end B)

          With the oil in a 250F oil bath, watch the bubbles. The irregularly sized solvent bubbles will cease first, leaving behind the equally sized fizzy CO2 bubbles from decarboxylation.
          When the production of CO2 bubbles suddenly falls off, it is at about 70% and maximum THC level. If you wait until it is bubble free, it is 100% decarboxylated, but some of the THC will have been converted to CBN.

          -Finishing-
          * cup is lightly reheated and substance pulled into oral syringes. (like the RSO method with no further purging, will this be safe? Seems to me it may not be?)
          or
          * cup is set in the vacuum purger and purged (how long I am unsure, 30-45 minutes?); substance is then ready for most usably convenient packaging

          Thank you again for your kindness and patience
          Love & Peace
          Dna

          A syringe will work fine. We usually mix our orals into Holy Anointing Oil or HS Oil, which we keep in dropper bottles.

          Reply

          • Posted by Dna on May 29, 2013 at 11:27 AM

            Thank you for clearing things up for me! I am ever grateful SPR.

          • Thanks for the good thoughts!

          • Posted by psedona on October 12, 2014 at 7:56 AM

            Re that 1300 Watts is adequate, but it is most likely not accurate in the 85F to 115F range.

            How many watts should you look for? And do you turn on the stir feature while you are distilling to increase efficicency? (with a magnetic bar inside the solution?)

  23. Posted by Headie Guy on May 22, 2013 at 8:36 PM

    Just curious why don’t you ever mention recycling hexane? Would a refrigerant pump work maybe with some heat.

    Reply

  24. Posted by Jared on May 20, 2013 at 4:27 PM

    I’ve noticed you mention that you get your Hexane at American Scientific. I’m currently on their website, and thet offer multiple kinds of Hexane. However, I am unable to distinguish which one I desire for HHO extraction. Here’s the link so you can quickly refer to their inventory and hopefully point me in the right direction. Also I’d like to apologize if you’ve already made this distinction, as I read most of the comments but figured it’d be easier just to ask.

    Thanks a ton, Jared

    Reply

  25. Posted by JDP on April 13, 2013 at 12:51 PM

    Hope I am not coming into blog too late. My observaton and question is this. If pulling high vacuum on oil solvent at a temperature above the vapour phaze of the good stuff with the hexane is it going out with slip stream. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexane_(data_page) shows that at absolute vacuum Hexane will evapourate at about -76C. Question then is at +20 and low vacuum is it making product less strong. If someone has a vapour temperature curve for oil “THC and caniboids” that goes into vacuum please share. Thanks

    Reply

  26. hello gw can we use a still to collect hexane like the ethenal

    Reply

  27. Posted by John on April 9, 2013 at 1:19 AM

    I came across this hexane extraction set up. I thought you guys might be interested in it. https://www.umaine.edu/mecheng/Peterson/Classes/Design/2009_10/Projects/Algae/DesignNotebook.pdf

    Reply

  28. Posted by Em Jay on March 25, 2013 at 11:45 AM

    Thanks for all the great information. I appreciate you guys putting it all out here. I wish I had seen your CO2 extraction page before spending a few weeks tearing out hair to arrive at the same conclusion.

    I have a question about using hexane. I am hoping to try this soon but in a temperature of 32-39 Celsius, unless I can catch an unusually cool day. Is there anything special that I should beware of from a safety aspect, other than the normal safety procedures for more reasonable climates?

    I am thinking of trying an open, relatively quick wash to avoid any concerns of pressure.
    I would guess that I could use the ambient temperature to purge initially before moving to heat purging.

    Any reassurance or warning you could give me on this would be very helpful

    Thanks

    Reply

    • Hexane has about the same flamability as gasoline, so you should treat it with the same respect and care.

      Yes you can evaporate away the hexane at ambient temperatures and can speed it along with a fan. It won’t pick up atmospheric water like alcohol will.

      Reply

  29. Posted by Doug Keller on March 25, 2013 at 9:23 AM

    Would cyclohexane be a viable solvent? It’s readily available as Coleman Premium camp fuel. The regular camp fuel is a blend of light hydrocarbons. Maybe that would work as well?

    Many thanks,
    B.B.

    Reply

    • The MSDS doesn’t define what light hydrocarbons, so I would recommend against it. Its boiling point range also suggests longer hydrocarbon chains than Hexane, which adds to the difficulty of purging.

      Reply

  30. Posted by Samantha on March 22, 2013 at 7:31 PM

    GW,

    Thank you for the extremely informative articles and website. It has inspired me to try a hexane wash. I was hoping you’d be kind enough to indulge a few questions.

    I have ~25grams of AVB (already vapped bud), which I was planning on doing the initial extraction with ethanol and the polish with hexane. My understanding is that ~50% of cannabinoids are left in AVB. If I assume a generous upper bound of 25% THC/cannabinoids originally in the pre-vapped bud, then I would expect to extract approximately 25g*0.50*0.25 or 3.125 grams of cannabinoids.

    Do you have any sense of the saturation point for cannabinoids in ethanol and hexane respectively? (At say, one atmosphere pressure and 20c.) I’m guessing that I’ll need a larger volume of ethanol to adequately soak and to press an efficiently large percentage of the ethanol from the AVB, but I’m also curious from the perspective of making tinctures, etc.

    You recommend people evaporate their ethanol to reduce the volume so that it requires less hexane when polishing. Is this due to saturation issues, or just ensuring there’s enough surface area when mixing the liquids to fully migrate the cannabinoids from the ethanol to the hexane?
    If it is the later, could this be mitigated by aggressively mixing or stirring the mixture, e.g., having the solution in a flash on a stirring plate for N minutes? Does one prefer their ethanol/hexane mixture shaken or stirred? :) What percentage of cannabinoids would one expect to be typically transferred?

    I was planning on purging the hexane using 200-proof ethanol wash and then evaporate the ethanol away. When vaporizing this final product, does one have to be concerned about purging ethanol as aggressively as hexane? While perhaps being less pleasant, is vaporizing small amounts of ethanol (which goes directly into the bloodstream) any more harmful than oral consumption?

    What sort of consistency can I expect out of my final product? I’ve inferred that this is partially dependent how decarboxylated the cannabinoids are? Is there any way to control the consistency?

    Previous “ethanol wash and evaporate” extractions I have done were a thick, very sticky and quite unwieldy paste. Any tips/suggestions for going from “lab glass” to storage container to consumption?

    Thank you for your attention,

    -Samantha

    Reply

    • Thanks for the good thoughts sisterwoman!

      There is no saturation point for mixing cannabis essential oils in either alcohol or hexane when simply mixing together, as they will blend at any ratio.
      The practical saturation point is probably around 30 to 50%, mol/mol, when extracting with either, as they become less aggressive as they load up with resin.
      You could do a cleaner extraction using simply hexane, instead of extracting with EtOH and washing with hexane.

      We extract large volumes with alcohol first, because of to the cost of HPLC reagent grade Hexane, which is more expensive than alcohol. Especially if using denatured alcohol or Iso.

      I shake my hexane mixture lightly to keep the boundary layers removed and fresh solvent at the resin interface. Not aggressively, as we don’t want to fragment the material.
      Hexane tastes and smells like gasoline, which most folks can detect down to 130 ppm, which is less than half a percent of (0.52%) the Acute Oral Toxicity of (LD50): 25000 mg/kg (~ppm) [Rat], or the Acute Toxicity of the gas (LC50): 48000 ppm 4 hours [Rat] .

      Ethanol tastes and smells like booze down to about 100ppm and the Acute Oral Toxicity (LD50): is 3450 mg/kg (~ppm) [Mouse], with Acute Toxicity of the vapor (LC50): 39000 mg/m3 4 hours [Mouse].

      As you can see, drinking Ethanol is actually more toxic to our bodies than Hexane. Hexane just doesn’t have as pleasant a taste or effect.

      Once vaped material will be partially decarboxylated and will be of a soft oily consistency and is one of the stickiest substances known to nature. We draw it up into a glass syringe and inject it into the new storage container, while still hot. Don’t try that with plastic syringes, as when it sets up, the piston cup will come off, before the plunger will withdraw, and with glass, you can heat it back up again easier.

      Reply

  31. Posted by zorb on March 18, 2013 at 10:43 PM

    Any good tips on using hexane with a soxhlet?

    Thanks for all the great easy to read information you provide.

    Reply

  32. Hi Graywolf, i have enjoyed reading your blog. thanks for sharing all this info.
    i have made RSO with hexane. Commonly from 30 grs of bud i get about 3.5 grs of oily grease that i mixed with the same amount of coconut oil to clean my little bowl.
    However i find a video where this guy says he can reach the double of oily grease using a distillation process: /watch?v=qTVf3Pb0Kpk

    i have revised my method and can not find where i am losing so much oil.

    Can you figured out how can that be accomplished ?

    Reply

    • When I joined Armond at a oil extraction gathering in southern Oregon, he was refluxing plant material using alcohol, which extracts a boat load of stuff besides the cannabinoids and terpenes, including so much chlorophyll that his oil is green black. We continue to get patients that can’t take black oil made by others, because the high chlorophyll concentration upsets their digestive tract.

      We don’t reflux with polar solvents like alcohol for that reason. A non polar solvent would be a better choice for refluxing.

      Armond and I will have to agree to disagree, as he knows my objections and is unswayed in his beliefs, as am I in my own.

      We average just over 20% Absolute yield from prime bud, with the highest ever being 28.1% using a Terpenator, where we can cycle as many times as it takes to get everything. An Absolute is the refined extract, after the non actives have been removed, so yields substaintally higher than that bear closer scrutiny.

      As far as how to get a better yield yourself, could you describe your process in more detail?

      Reply

      • Thanks for your response, i once used your QWET method and like it but then i change to hexane myself.
        Aamann is now using naphtha as you can see here: /watch?v=Bi0PUyS-whY
        And as i know from him he is planing to use hexane.

        1) I got bud only (from mex dealers, just starting to grow my own. About half pound bud -250grs- costs me 77.00 US dlls) and grind it coarsely and extract seeds.
        2) then i put the bud in a glass flask and for 30grs of plant i add about 500ml hexane and mash it with a wooden stick for 3 minutes and then i let it there for about 20 mins. Then strain the liquid.
        3) I add 250ml hexane this time to the same batch of wet bud and again 3 minutes mash with 20 minutes rest and strain.
        4) I let the liquid sit for about 1 – 2 hrs so sediments go to the botton and siphon the liquid and pass it thru coffee filter. Liquid goes easily trhu filter and dont stuck.
        5) i put the liquid in a tempered bowl in a hot oil bath in an oster fondue at about 60C for evaporation until very little liquid (hexane oil mix) remains in the bowl. I use an infrared laser thermometer to calibrate the temp inside.
        6) I transfer the liquid to a very small tempered glass bowl (125ml) and put it in a coffee heater, i usually add 3 drops of drinkable water per 1 oz of bud. So i add my drops of water and heat until big bubbles dissapear and decarboxylation tinny bubbles also dissapear. Even when i swirl the bowl.
        7) i add virgin coconut oil to help to clean the bowl, the proportion i add is 1:1 cannabis oil – coconut oil.
        8) dispense in 3ml syringes.

        Even tought the cannabis oil is diluted with coconut oil, this makes a strong medicine for my wife and i. We are new taking cannabis in any form and we got a strong sedative effect for about a week. We take about half rice grain dose before bed.

        NOTE: i once used 190 proof grain alcohol to eliminate waxes and yes i got a very translucent oil, beautiful amber color, but very little yield.
        Then i eliminate this step because i thought maybe the material i removed was used for healing purposes. i thought anyway Rick Simpson oil is getting amazing result without removing waxes.

        from 30grms of bud i get about 3.5 grams of un-waxed cannabis oil.

        Anedoctal note: once i let dry some cannabis that used for make oil. I used hexane in it. so when it dryied i realized so much seeds was still there, so much! so i pick them and put it to sprout. For my surprise ALL OF THEM sprouted !!

        Well thanks for reading this.

        Reply

        • Thanks for the link, it does look like Aarmond has moved up from refluxing with alcohol, to non polar naphtha, and if he moves on to a reagent grade of Pentane or Hexane, we will be closer to the same sheet of music. We like Hexane and use an HPLC reagent grade, which we obtain from the local American Scientific.

          Switching to a non polar solvent like naphtha, side steps the issues with water soluble and chlorophyll pickup, but adds the issue of non polar wax pickup. We extract most of our material with a non polar solvent, but subsequently winterize to remove the waxes and to produce an Absolute.

          There may be some Light Naphtha that is suitable, but the term Naphtha simply covers a boiling point range from 30C to 200C. Light Naphtha still only limits it to 30C to 90C, which is where n-Pentane and n-Hexane’s boiling points fall, but so do a number of aromatic alkenes, such as benzene, and some manufacturers do in fact include Benzene and display it on their MSDS sheets.

          We recommend the use of Pentane or Hexane instead, but if you do use Naphtha, at least don’t just go get some at the local paint store, first find out what is available and then pull the MSDS sheets for those brands to make sure they don’t contain known carcinogens.

          Looking at your process for tweaks, you might consider using a longer soak. Hexane won’t pickup water like alcohol, or even butane. Chlorophyll is also non soluble in Hexane, so I have soaked up to 12 hours, for maximum extraction, or even reflux boiled with Hexane.

          Our losses through winterization average about 8% by weight and our yield averages just over 20% Absolute, so if you were extracting bud, the odds are good that some was left behind.

          As you appear to be using the oil for oral medications, fully decarboxylating it and adding coconut oil, is an excellent way to produce a sedative med. Not only does full decarboxylation at low temperatures keep the THC levels low, it raises the CBN levels, and CBN is a sedative.

          The coconut oil not only has its own medicinal properties, but ties up the liver processing it, so that the liver doesn’t breakdown and remove the cannabinoids quite as rapidly, and they stick around longer.

          Interesting that the seeds all sprouted! Speaks well for their hardiness!

          Peace, GW

          Reply

          • My methods all are based on your information GW, little by little i am doing better each time.

            As you can notice english is not my native language, i am doing my best in the following questions:

            1) how long do you recommend the reflux extraction with hexane, 30 minutes is ok ?
            i am planing to make about 30 grams of bud this time, with 500ml hexane.

            2) what is your recommended temperature for reflux extraction with hex ?

            3) do you think so much cannabis oil is missed in the solvent evaporation phase ?
            the oil bath i use in the oster foundue is about 60C for evap.
            I saw your schemes about a distillator to reclain alcohol, i will do it later.

            4) I have done the wax purge without freezing. When the solvent is almost evaporated from the oil i add about 10 times the volume of 190 proof grain alcohol and inmediately the waxes and other substances go to the botton, and i inmediately put the oil-alcohol mix in a coffee filter. A pus-like layer forms in the coffee filter and a crystal clear amber color liquid goes thru it.
            what is your opinion about this process of purging without freezing ?

          • My methods all are based on your information GW, little by little i am doing better each time.
            As you can notice english is not my native language, i am doing my best in the following questions:
            1) how long do you recommend the reflux extraction with hexane, 30 minutes is ok ?

            30 minutes is probably long enough, but I would probably use an hour, as there is no need to rush a non polar extraction.

            i am planing to make about 30 grams of bud this time, with 500ml hexane.
            2) what is your recommended temperature for reflux extraction with hex ?

            Hot enough to boil and that depends on your altitude above sea level.
            n-Hexane boils at sea level at 69C/156F and that is hot as you can get it without putting it under pressure.

            3) do you think so much cannabis oil is missed in the solvent evaporation phase ?
            the oil bath i use in the oster foundue is about 60C for evap.
            I saw your schemes about a distillator to reclain alcohol, i will do it later.

            You shouldn’t be loosing cannabinoids at 140F.

            4) I have done the wax purge without freezing. When the solvent is almost evaporated from the oil i add about 10 times the volume of 190 proof grain alcohol and inmediately the waxes and other substances go to the botton, and i inmediately put the oil-alcohol mix in a coffee filter. A pus-like layer forms in the coffee filter and a crystal clear amber color liquid goes thru it.
            what is your opinion about this process of purging without freezing ?

            We filter out a lot of wax the first filter after adding the alcohol too, but more comes out after freezing.

          • 5) Is it normal the cannabis oil makes us our mouth so dry ? this have been a side effect for us.

      • so let me get this right…. using hexane extraction with 30 grams of material only yield’s 3.5 grams???

        Reply

  33. Posted by Technopharmer on March 1, 2013 at 7:23 AM

    Hi – this is a remarkable and tremendously useful site — thank you for sharing all your hard work and conclusions.

    In the picture of the Vacuum Filtration System, on top of the 1.75 litre liquor bottle, there is an orange cap with vacuum port — that looks like quite a practical and helpful gadget. I’ve googled a bit trying to find it but I don’t know what to call it. Can you point me to a source?

    Reply

    • Its a vacuum filtration unit. You can get disposable and reusable units from Nalgene. If you get disposable I suggest 0.45um PES membrane. The reusable ones are usually glass with a stainless screen to support whatever type of filter paper you desire.

      Reply

  34. Posted by Chef420 on February 28, 2013 at 3:24 PM

    I recently used a hexane extraction and stumbled upon something that may be useful, we took the hho before it was completely purged and dissolved it in liquid butane. After the butane was purged via light heat and fan we were left with a product much like bho but with no scent of hexane left to distract us. Try it! Have we found the easiest way to purge hho without vacuum equipment?

    Reply

  35. if a person did a cold everclear extract and did the hexane/brine wash multiple times could the end product be what people call “shatter”?

    Reply

    • Yes, as long as the heat was kept low, so as to retain the extract in carboxylic acid form.

      Reply

      • Hmmm, Low as in 140 degrees fahrenheit? or less? or higher? After I poked around I realized I should prolly be asking this in the alcohol extraction section. ooops. thanx for answering anyway. I figured I should ask this here cuz its already the flow. thanx again. I’m thinkin itz the 140 temp but I’d love to know for sure as my oils always are more like “sap” varieties than the more hard types.

        Reply

        • Also any good plans or words about building a ghetto style vac chamber to get me thru till i get set up better? I’m not really clear on how it works and how dangerous it is to apply low heat to a mason jar attached to one? I was also wondering if the fitting for the mason jar requires a inflow of air or does it just go out to the pump. Also what r the glass bottles with fittings on the pump and where do you get them? thanx have a wonderful day.

          Reply

          • I’ve been checking out the vacuum pics closer, The other air line I thought I saw was really the electric cord to the hot plate. So if I got it right = the mason jar has a simple brass fitting,hooks up to some form of “spit up” type bottle to catch any overflow from the oil, then straight into the intake of the pump.Exhaust should go outside away and whole unit should be in well ventilated fan blowing on it kind of area? So the bottle could be a mason jar with fittings? What is the second bottle for? Fumbling my way to mediocraty. peace c

          • That is a deceiving picture as the pump being used is a military surplus MASH pump and the bottles are to catch any bodily fluids before reaching the pump and another to catch any that made it to and through the pump.

            We like to use it in applications not requiring vacuum below -28″ Hg, and where the vapors being pumped carry a heavy solvent load, which will dillute the crankcase of conventional vacuum pumps without inlet coldtraps. An inlet cold trap operates similar to the bottle in front of the MASH pump, but is emersed in a chilled bath to condense the vapors to a liquid before reaching the pump.

            We use labratory vacuum flasks with a one hole stopper for that purpose, but there is no reason that you couldn’t do it with a bulkhead fitting through the lid of a fruit jar. It is a matter of having enough surface area at a low enough temperature to condense the volume of vapor that you are pulling through. If one was not enough, you might cascade several jars, held submerged in a brine bath.

          • No plans, but you can pick up to 1 1/4″ acrylic plate from Tap Plastics or similar supplier for the lid and drill and tap it for plumbing connections, just like it was metal.

            You can also install an O-ring bulkhead fitting in the lid for plumbing, if you don’t want to tap it.

            If you install a cross on the pipe nipple that you screw into the bulkhead fitting or tapped hole, and install a ball valve for the pump connection on the top straight through leg of the tee, a pressure gauge on one of the side ports to keep track of what is going on, and a ball valve on the other horizontal ports to release vacuum, you’re set to go.

            You can use a large pressure cooker or a heavy duty stock pot for the chamber, and make a gasket out of neoprene or viton to go between the plastic lid and the top of the stock pot. We have a large 22 quart Mirror pressure cooker that we have modified to use as a vacuum chamber, but you can’t see what is going on, so I plan to make a 1 1/4″ thick lid for it. When I do, I will post some pictures.

            Gasket Specalties or Paramount Supply are good sources for custom gaskets, or if you pick a Mirror pressure cooker for the chamber, you can reuse the existing gasket, by attaching it to the lid with rubber cement.

            GW

          • Okay new question about vacuum chambers = What about using an aluminum pressure cooker with a 3/8″ Lexan lid ? Aluminum get in extracts? Silicone gasket okay to seal? Stainless would be better but I happen to have an old aluminum one here now so,,,, Could the pressure cooker body handle the pressures of being a vac chamber ? and last How many jars have you seen or heard of explode using the “ghetto” method? Just read a bunch about glass shards etc and well, I’m a chicken! Plus the extra space could prove handy. Another odd question to the side would be , Could a person heat the base of the pressure cooker thusly heating the whole vac chamber without hurting the process of creating a vacuum or weaken the unit? I mean temps like 140 F at most. One question always leads to 20 more. Nice day for sure. Thanks guys.

          • Aluminum will work fine for the vacuum chamber, as long as you process them material in another glass or stainless container. The 22 quart Mirror pressure cooker that I will be adding the Lexan lid to, is aluminum.

            It is also fine to heat the chamber from the outside while pulling a vacuum, within the heat ranges used in our processes. That is how most folks use the metal vacuum pots for our purposes.

            Neoprene would be a better choice than silicone rubber, which is attacked by both alcohol and butane.

          • Wow, I posted a question about pressure cookers and the page reloaded and you had already answered most of it . Damn your good. Thanks again, still am curious about thickness of lexan etc. Guy online using it for molding has 3/8″ lexan cover held on by silicone goop layers on each side and vacuum. and also about the heating the whole pressure cooker at the base to like 140 F effect on it as a vac chamber. Thanks again. Here’s the link to the plans online I found that actually looked workable. Am curious if you think 3/8th” is enough to take the strain though. I thought to double it up maybe? anywho onward thru the fog!

          • 3/8″ is thick enough to withstand the 14.7 psi absolute pressure, but not the constant flexing. There have been a number of write ups of folks imploding 3/8″ lids, and I suspect high cyclic fatigue.

            I will use at least 1″, so that it flexes less under vacuum.

          • Yow,I’m spaced = here is the link to the online plans of the other vac chamber http://www.squidoo.com/how-to-build-a-vacuum-chamber-for-degassing
            and a picture of it if that works here otherwise its just a link to it =

          • They have the right idea on basic design, but could improve upon the actual details.

            I would use a heavier lid and use neoprene instead of silicone rubber sealant, as it is readily attacked by both alcohol and butane.

          • Posted by C on March 2, 2013 at 2:55 PM

            Thanks for all the info. I’m gonna follow your advice and go for the thicker Lexan top for the vac pot and also use the neoprene instead of the silicone. The vac chamber the guy built was for silicone injection and prolly is okay for the gasket but I was wondering how it would react under butane and everclear,etc. Thanks I am pretty poor so any money saved on the learning curve is a blessing!
            Have a great day!

          • Have fun, hope you will report back and share your success!

            GW

        • If you can vacuum it to -29.9″ Hg, 115F works, but at atmospheric pressure, 125/140F in very thin films, is a good range to operate in if you are trying to maintain it in carboxylic acid form, so that it is brittle at ambient temperatures.

          With a vacuum chamber that you can control the heat in, making shatter is duck soup at 115F and -29.9F, but reliably doing it without vacuum, varies by strain, weather conditions, and the condition of the material.

          If you winterize, you can cold boil the alcohol off or keep the temperatures below 125F, in a vacuum chamber, and finish off in thin films in Petri dishes at 115F.

          Your vacuum gauge readings may vary with your altitude and the temperature required by strain, but those are good numbers to start with, and controling using a laser pyrometer.

          For what its worth, we winterize and decarboxylate our oils for oral and topical consumption, and they always end up soupy, even before we add the other ingredients.

          Vaporizing those oils varies in flavor profile, but on balance they are not nearly as floral as the raw oleoresin that they were initially extracted from. They are however tasty and each strain has a distinctive odor profile when you open the jar and stick your nose in it, so the other terpenes are reduced, not eliminated.

          I love the flavors of the lighter terpenes, but sill limit how much raw oleoresin that I vaporize, because I don’t care for the sensation of the plant waxes coating my lungs, mouth and teeth. We wint

          We remove it from oral meds only because it is a non active dillutant, and the topical because it gets left behind on the skin after the rest of the ingredients are absorbed.

          Reply

  36. Posted by myles on January 27, 2013 at 6:42 PM

    Well I basically did your procedure, but with a few adjustments to fit me better.

    1. Washed cannabis for 40 seconds with isopropyl alcohol. At room temperature. Filtered out cannabis.

    2. Put isopropyl solution into freezer for about 36 hours. Filtered out waxes.

    3. Evaporated the isopropyl solution at a low temperature in a copper bb bath until their was about 45 mL left.

    3. Winterized a second time for 20 hours. Filtered out even more wax.

    4. Added isopropyl solution into separatory funnel.

    5. Added 50 mL HEPTANE into sep. funnel. Followed by 100 mL supersaturated salt water. Swirled around to mix.

    6. To my surprise 2 layers formed. A bottom layer that contained some isopropyl alcohol, and salt water. Then a top layer that must of had isopropyl alcohol, heptane, and cannabis oil.

    7. I drained off the bottom layer. Still a little confused. Then I added about 100 mL of distilled water. Swirled.

    8. I now had 2 distinct layers. With a mild emulsion in between. I removed the water/isopropyl solution.

    9. Washed heptane solution with distilled water 3 more times. I was then left with a golden solution of heptane, and cannabis oil.

    10. Winterized the heptane solution just to see if I would get any more waxes. I did. But it was very minimal. So I did not bother filtering.

    11. I boiled the heptane off in copper bb bath at 96C.

    12. I then did 3 ethanol washes. Boiling ethanol off vigorously each time.

    13. Finally let hash oil sit out at room temperature for 1 day. Whipping every 4 hours

    I don’t think I let the cannabis sit in the isopropyl long enough. Do you think I am doing excessive heating? I feel like I converted almost all the THC to CBN. I have not tried the hash oil yet. So I can’t really judge it that way. But to my knowledge. The hash oil is going to be a sedative. Which is not really what I am looking for. I used heptane simply because it is much easier to get then hexane. Any suggestions? Words of wisdom?

    I think you guys are amazing, and your work is so detailed. I love how you put it in chemistry terms. I hope to aspire to have a job like you one day.

    Reply

    • Your general procedure looks sound. Good job!
      I think 40 seconds at ambient temperatures should be more than adequate soak time. You can always do a second soak and keep it separate.
      You can improve the quality of your extract, if you freeze the material and Iso to 0F, so as to tie up the water and lock in the chlorophyll.
      You can reduce the amount of heating, by evaporating the Iso away using a fan. If you reduce the Iso, it takes less Heptane, which boils at a higher boiling point than Iso. If you use less of it, you have to boil less away.
      Heptane can also be evaporated away with a fan, so that you save the vigorous boiling for final purging, using alcohol.

      Reply

      • Posted by Myles on January 31, 2013 at 6:20 PM

        Thanks for the response you always have something interesting to say. I will have to try freezing the iso to 0F next time. I was thinking that sense I was going to wash the iso with heptane, I would get almost no chlorophyll in the end product. My hash oil was fairly dark so I think I should have brought the iso to 0F before final extract like you said, and do multiple supersaturated salt water washes. Also at the end I did do a vacuum purge at 28 inches Hg. Which seemed to remove almost all of the ethanol/water. But it never turned to “shatter” unless I put it in my freezer for about 3 mn. Do you think to get the hash oil into a pliable “shatter” state I would just have to add heat while it’s in a vacuum; to remove all of the solvents? Also even though the hash oil had a dark color to it, it tasted and smelled good… like hash. It also got me higher than shit. Still pretty heady, but a good body high to. I think the THC and CBN kinda worked together. I was expecting a real strong sedative. But I did not get that. I wish I could test the levels of the cannabinoids…. I’ll figure something out.
        But anyways, thanks for the help you are awesome

        Reply

        • Thanks for the good thoughts bro! What does the extract taste like? If it tastes like gasoline, the low viscosity is retained heptane. Retained alcohol tastes sweet.

          If it is neither, then I sususpect you have at least partially decarboxylated oil.

          GW

          Reply

  37. Posted by David Johnson on October 30, 2012 at 8:50 AM

    Hi GW

    I would like to start off by saying you have the most comprehensive and educated collection of information I have been able to come across, and I thank you for publicly sharing all of your work.

    My brother and I have been making hash for years and have experimented with various methods. We are interested in trying to create some acetate. We are considering doing the above described HHO method with the addition of distillation apparatus to reclaim our hexane and ethanol. But I have been reading your other pages and I was wondering what your most preferred method would be to get the highest yield and purest product. I am so filled questions I want to ask you but I’ll stop there. We were planing to purchase our glassware soon but will await your very educated opinion.

    I look forward to hearing back from you and hopefully collaborating with you.

    Thankfully David

    Reply

    • Thanks for the good thoughts David! We’re pleased that you’ve found our data useful!

      We like to extract with a non polar solvent like Butane, Pentane, or Hexane, and then winterize it with ethanol, for most of our applications.

      To convert the extracted oil into an acetate, I would pick up a good stirring hotplate with stand, a 1 liter boiling flask with taper, an Alhin condenser with matching taper, water pump, and a separatory funnel with stand.

      For recovery, I would get a distillation elbow to fit the boiling flask, and use the Alhin to reclaim the vapors as you cook them off. A Leibig or a Graham condenser will also work in this latter application.

      You will also need a beaker to finish of the oil in, as the distillation flasks narrow neck prevents easy resin removal afterwards. You can reclaim most of the hexane or alcohol and just boil off the last bit in an open beaker, or use a still with a larger opening.

      In that regard, I’m not sure what all is available, as I built ours out of an asparagus steamer, using a copper coil in an ice bath as the condenser.

      Better yet, is to remove the last bit of solvent using vacuum and low heat, but that requires the next round of equipment.

      Reply

      • Posted by David on November 1, 2012 at 11:57 AM

        Thanks for getting back to me so quick GW,

        So, you would recommend a hot plate and flat bottom flasks over round bottom and a heating mantle?

        Also I have a few questions unrelated to equipment. I’ve read you say in a few places that you don’t bother with refluxing or soxhletting as you are only interested in extracting the oils from the trichomes. Are there not any valuable oils in the plant material itself? I was under the impressions there was a small amount of THC to be extracted from the plant as well.

        And in regards to THC acetate I have seen claims that the process increases the weight of the yield up to 25% have you found any truth to this claim?

        Do you have any experience mixing or cutting THC acetate with anything besides vegetable glycerin for the vapor pens? I was considering cutting the oil with something pleasant like coconut extract to more easily administer the proper dose. I would be using the oil mostly on a titanium nail until I can build my own vape pen.

        Have you ever considered trying to isomerize the CDB in something like hemp oil extract? I’ve always wondered if it would be worth while to try the process on industrial hemp, or hemp rope, or help oil, something that might contain a sizable amount of CBD. Do you think anything like that might be worth trying?

        And lastly, I realize I just asked you a lot of questions in a non-stop torrent of thought but I was also curios as to your average yield when running good bud, not trim. Should I expect 15%-25% ?

        Thanks for being so helpful,
        David

        Reply

        • Hi David, answers in bold:
          So, you would recommend a hot plate and flat bottom flasks over round bottom and a heating mantle?

          Yes, so you can use it on a hot plate with a magnetic stirring feature.
          Also I have a few questions unrelated to equipment. I’ve read you say in a few places that you don’t bother with refluxing or soxhletting as you are only interested in extracting the oils from the trichomes. Are there not any valuable oils in the plant material itself? I was under the impressions there was a small amount of THC to be extracted from the plant as well.

          The cannabinoids are produced by the trichomes themselves and are not present anywhere but the trichomes or where they have ruptured and smeared.
          And in regards to THC acetate I have seen claims that the process increases the weight of the yield up to 25% have you found any truth to this claim?

          No. Maybe if you start with pure THC, but by the time we remove all the inert ingredients from the oil and lose some oil in the process, it is closer to a push.
          Do you have any experience mixing or cutting THC acetate with anything besides vegetable glycerin for the vapor pens? I was considering cutting the oil with something pleasant like coconut extract to more easily administer the proper dose. I would be using the oil mostly on a titanium nail until I can build my own vape pen.

          We didn’t mix the THC with anything for the vapor pens, just saturated the wick with the acetate oil as was.
          Have you ever considered trying to isomerize the CDB in something like hemp oil extract? I’ve always wondered if it would be worth while to try the process on industrial hemp, or hemp rope, or help oil, something that might contain a sizable amount of CBD. Do you think anything like that might be worth trying?

          Yes we considered it, but with all of its desirable medical properties, we are actually growing high CBD strains so that patients can take mega doses without being discombobulated.
          And lastly, I realize I just asked you a lot of questions in a non-stop torrent of thought but I was also curios as to your average yield when running good bud, not trim. Should I expect 15%-25% ?

          We average just over 20% Absolute on indoor plants, with a record outdoor plant producing just over 27+%. The lowest was a high CBD Catalyst strain at 5.8%.
          Thanks for being so helpful,
          David

          You’re welcome!
          GW

          Reply

          • Posted by psedona on October 12, 2014 at 8:18 AM

            Sweet Is the stir feature applied during the simple distillation? Do you put the little coated pill in the flask with hexane solution?

  38. Posted by shayan on September 12, 2012 at 7:08 AM

    Hey GW Thank you I think I’ve Learn a lot from your first reply.

    About The microwave and the blinder I have more dry trimmings and I wont do the same mistake with them. I will grind them up with my hands. thank you.

    About leaving Hexane to a longer time, I also tried the way that I added the Hexane to A Glass jar with a lid something that might be used for pickles and left it for a day. the next day I purred the green colored liquid into another jar with the same details and Again added more new Hexane to the Glass Jar #1 and I repeated this process for 3 day’s and today I have a Jar that is full. how do you think I should evaporate the left Hexane?? How can I attache some pictures for you to see??

    Regarding My heat source I use a Hot Plate Electronic Heat, I think its quite safe because I putt 2 or 3 ceramic plates and it brings the temperature to something around 70*c Also I have a small fan that I use When I’m doing the Process over the Pyrex.

    And for My filters I Cabin filter for car’s cabin filter I think it might work fine because the hexane gets a clear color and there’s nothing in there but its still green. what do you suggest I use for my filtering??

    Than you mate your good at this and helping me a lot hope to return the favor.

    Best Regards
    S

    Reply

    • The material need not be ground, only broken up to expose the surfaces that have trichomes on them. When we grind for compaction in a column, we scrub it through 10 mesh screen by hand. For extraction in a jar, I would minimize grinding, for the most pristine product.

      Just blowing air across the hexane with a fan, to keep the saturation layer removed, will dissipate it rapidly. That doesn’t work well in a dusty or hairy environment, so you might cover it with a cheese cloth first.

      You can send photos to graywolfslair1@gmail.com.

      I would suggest re-filtering through a coffee filter, or a #1 Wattman, which is about 17 microns.

      Reply

      • Posted by C on March 19, 2013 at 6:03 PM

        What would you recomend to make the process faster? Three plastic fans,one below,one on it and one oscillating around and above it. Electric fry pan with water at 110 F with Pyrex pan floating in it outside. ??? At 50 F outside it took a while.thanks

        Reply

        • Posted by C on March 20, 2013 at 1:08 AM

          The process I’m refering too above is evaporating the hexane to reduce the bulk of the solution to a concentrate.I’m thinking to do what I describe above. How long does the hexane stay hexane before it mixes with the atmoshere and becomes not a flammable danger? Same question for butane also seeing I’m asking it for hexane already? If I run a 3′ tube with say 3 or 4 300 mil cans how long does it take to clear the area of gas using two fans like you have in the pic to clear the area of any residual and then does it stay as a cloud or does it integrate with the air rapidly? I get that it is heavier than air as it is does it float up eventually through the evaporation process or does it stay a cloud near the ground?
          thanks

          Reply

          • If you are blowing air directly at it with a fan, it should dissipate quickly as it forms. The trick is to dillute it below flammable limits as soon as possible wit the fan.

          • Posted by C on March 20, 2013 at 2:13 PM

            Okay, thanks.I’m in kinda a bowl type space so I’ll have fans pushing it off and down the hill.Thanks again!

        • 115F and a fan blowing directly over the surface of the liquid, to carry away the enriched layer, so as to make it easier for other solvent molecules to escape.

          Reply

          • Posted by C on March 23, 2013 at 4:24 PM

            I went back and did another test just using fans /noheat and IT was really fast so maybe the humidity was high the first time I tried or my sense of timewas off. I kept track this time and it was evaporating much faster.Amazingly fast. With no heat it is much less stressful so I will stick to that as the time is more than acceptable, especially when compared to evaporating off that much everclear.THanks though for giving me the parameters of how to use heat if I need to.If I ever did a bunch I would prolly use some kind of thermal siphon to a cooler full of hot water.Hexane really acts a lot like pet ether. I ended up using 2 20″ box fans set up one next to the tray evaporating,about a foot or so away and the other below that behind the first fan about another foot.Like fan steps. First blows stuff off top second blows stuff off from below.Oil is a nice lemon yellow so far and I still need to filter it.thanx for the tips!

          • You’re welcome! Bon appetite!

  39. Posted by shayan on September 11, 2012 at 6:35 AM

    hey there thanx a lot for ur reply.
    ye sure I can detail all the process I went throw.

    First of all A got EMPLURA n-Hexane Code no. K41517668 038 1.04368.2500. is it right??

    then I got my trimmings and dried them in the microwave, after drying a I crumbled it well in a blender till it all became powder.

    I added the Trimmings to a Pyrex dish then added my n-Hexane till it covered the trimmings. I gently heat my trimmings and n-Hexane for about a minute and pure the liquid in another Pyrex bowl throw my paper filter. one more time I add new n-Hexane to the same trimmings and put it on the heat source one more time and again heated the liquid for something around 1 minute.

    I added the liquid to the Pyrex bowl #2 were all the rest of the liquid was, then put bowl #2 on the heat source to evaporate the n-Hexane out.

    after like 2 minute all the Hexane was evaporated and I was left with a gooyi dark green material that looked nothing like Honey oil some parts of it looked kinda like a dark green powder material. I collected all that was left and smoked it anyway and I have to say it was not a nice smoke at all. it seemed like it was utter shit and it stink ed.

    Please help me and tell me were I went wrong because I really cant miss this.

    Best Regards
    S

    Reply

    • hey there thanx a lot for ur reply.
      ye sure I can detail all the process I went throw.

      First of all A got EMPLURA n-Hexane Code no. K41517668 038 1.04368.2500. is it right??

      Judging from their site, it is. When I punched in HPLC grade, it referred me to that product, and the MSDS looks OK.

      then I got my trimmings and dried them in the microwave, after drying a I crumbled it well in a blender till it all became powder.

      Neither the microwave, nor a blender is a good practice. Microwaves degenerate the cannabinoids, and the blender produces too many fines that make it through the filters. If you get it too dry and powdery, you will end up with a lot of fines, that won’t easily filter out.

      Hexane is non polar, and immiscible in water, so a 10 to 15% water content is fine for extraction, and will better preserve the mono and sesquiterpenes. The wetter material is also not prone to fragmentation into powder.

      I added the Trimmings to a Pyrex dish then added my n-Hexane till it covered the trimmings.
      I gently heat my trimmings and n-Hexane for about a minute and pure the liquid in another Pyrex bowl throw my paper filter.

      Too short. I have done Hexane extractions of up to 12 hours, without undesirable pickup.
      You need more action to clear the boundary layers between the resin and the solvent. I would use a closed jar and shake it aggressively periodically, then crack the lid and vent off the pressure.

      one more time I add new n-Hexane to the same trimmings and put it on the heat source one more time and again heated the liquid for something around 1 minute.

      I added the liquid to the Pyrex bowl #2 were all the rest of the liquid was, then put bowl #2 on the heat source to evaporate the n-Hexane out.

      What you using for a heat source?

      after like 2 minute all the Hexane was evaporated and I was left with a gooyi dark green material that looked nothing like Honey oil some parts of it looked kinda like a dark green powder material. I collected all that was left and smoked it anyway and I have to say it was not a nice smoke at all. it seemed like it was utter shit and it stink ed.

      It should be a golden amber, not green. Green is chlorophyll and is not dissolved by Hexane, so that leads us to the dry powder and your filter. What you using?

      Please help me and tell me were I went wrong because I really cant miss this.
      Best Regards
      S

      Hope that helps bro, and good luck on the next batch!

      GW

      Reply

  40. Posted by shayan on September 10, 2012 at 4:37 PM

    hey a worked this process out but at the end the product it gave me was a really dark green color and it end up drying out and turning to some kind of dark green hashi material and it was not really good when smoked, also it did not look like the final product u showed in the picture at all. Please help me

    Reply

  41. Posted by scottie15 on July 28, 2012 at 2:15 PM

    Because thc-a is more polar than thc due to its carboxyl group, is there any chance of some thc-a leaving the non-polar solvent during the brine wash?

    If so, I could see how decarboxylating before the brine wash would be beneficial. However, if one was to add the isomerization step, exposing it to a second heating, too much degradation would occur to the pre-decarbed oil.

    Reply

    • THCA does not become water soluable (not “in solution”) very easily. It could sediment if you raise the pH above 5.5 but its not likely, THCA’s polar end will point to water but, the non polar end should stay in the hexane. The ionic charge of sodium cloride (in water) is likely not strong enough to overcome the energy barrier. If this were a NaOH solution, then yes the sodium would deprotonate THC-COOH to THC-COONa at pH 5.5 and above and this conformation will sediment. If you want more info on sedimenting, see our PNP extraction page.

      Reply

  42. Posted by tilopa88 on June 13, 2012 at 7:11 PM

    Thanks, I found the ebay item you mentioned and have purchased it. The stuff is not cheap.

    To get around the cost, I had the idea of using denatured ethanol for the initial solution, then filter and precipitate out the ethanol leaving a poor purity of honey oil (dark green). Then take that dark green product and dissolve it in the hexane, filter out the plant impurities and precipitate the hexane leaving a pure honey oil. My question is what type of filter would I need to filter the green plant matter? What micron filter would filter the green stuff but leave the THC?

    Reply

  43. Posted by tilopa88 on June 9, 2012 at 2:27 PM

    Awesome read. I’ve been researching different methods for honey oil extraction and this the best I’ve found. My problem is I cannot seem to be able to find hexane lab grade for purchase.

    In my research I’ve found that Ethyl Acetate would be a better solvent than Isopropanol or ethanol or methanol because it is less polar.

    Do you think Ethyl Acetate would work well in dissolving thc and not dissolving plant matter? I have access to EA lab grade so would like to get started with that and maybe some day I’ll be able to get my hands on some hexane.

    Thanks.
    Jack

    Reply

    • We’ve only used ethyl acetate for alchemy, but ostensibly it would offer a solvent between the simple alkanes and alcohols from a polarity standpoint.

      Not sure where you are located, but we use HPLC grade Hexane, which we get from American Scientific.

      Reply

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