QWISO Extraction with Isopropyl

Quick Wash Isopropyl, also know as QWISO is one of the techniques the skunk pharm uses to extract oil from mixed leaf for topicals and sometimes buds or trim for vaporization.   Here is our techniques for producing a pristine oleoresin extraction.

We also decarboxylate our oil for topicals and based on the 122C/252F curve shown in the attached graph, courtesy of Jump.

Note that the boiling point of the terpene ß-caryophyllene is 119C/246.2F, so it is boiled off at that temperature, and its anti-inflammatory, cytoprotective (gastric mucosa), and anti-malarial properties are diminished or lost.

The first question is why use a quick wash technique to extract the resins, instead of long soaks to extract as much resin as possible, or just reflux boiling the material in alcohol to get the greatest amount of extracted material?

The answer to that is that because alcohol is a highly polar solvent that is soluble in water, the latter two techniques also extract the water solubles like chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, as well as the plant waxes and vegetable oil.

Even quick wash does to a lesser degree, but the added steps that we include here minimize pickup even further and we take additional steps to remove the impurities that we do pick up, so that they are not left behind on the skin.

The first wash will usually extract 75 to 80%, leaving the balance for the second. If you use a hand microscope, you can easily see when the trichome heads are gone and the stalks look like wet fur.

A cured material QWISO absolute made from prime bud, is one of the most aromatic and tasty of the extraction and consistently gets high raves from the volunteer test panels, as well as the patients and students when vaporized. Both from an efficacy, as well as a flavor standpoint.

This process is for mixed leaf material however, which includes fan leaves, so it usually isn’t all that tasty.

The first step in the process is to get as much water as possible out of the material. Typically material for smoking has been cured to about 15% water content. 15% is a lot of water and the alcohol already has 1% in it, so unless we reduce the water content even further, we will be extracting a lot of water solubles.

We dry our cured material even further by spreading it on a cookie sheet and baking it in a 200F oven until just frangible when rolled between the finger and thumb.

At this point, we have a choice of running the leaf whole, or reducing it in size to improve packing.  Leaving it whole will produce a more pristine extraction, with the least amount of chlorophyll pickup, and we do it both ways.

When we make QWISO for vaporizing, or for a show and tell beauty contest, we always leave the leaves whole.

When reducing it in size, while it is still warm from the oven, we force the material through a pasta strainer.

In both cases, we seal the material in a jar while still warm and place in the freezer to tie up any remaining water as ice. We also put the 99% Isopropyl alcohol in the freezer.

When they have both stabilized at about -32C/0F, we pour the alcohol into the jar of plant material, so that it is at least an inch above the material, and shake it gently for 20 seconds.

At the end of 20 seconds, we dump it through a wire strainer to drain quickly. I use a pasta strainer to catch the bulk of the material, followed by a fine mesh French Chinoise. This allows the material and the alcohol to separate fast.

We set the material aside to dry and refreeze for a second extraction.

Next we filter the alcohol, using either vacuum and a #1 lab filter, filter or a simple coffee filter, depending on the quantity we are processing.

After filtration, there are a couple of directions to go, depend on use.  If it is to be used for vaporizing, we may place it a large surface area dish, like a Pyrex pie plate, and just blow air over it.  That reduces it fast, but is not a suitable technique in dusty areas.  That can be improved somewhat by placing cheese cloth over the dish and blowing over the top of that.

When the alcohol is visually gone, place the dish on a 140F heat mat, or float it in a hot water dish, until the smell and taste of the Isopropyl is gone, usually around 30 minutes to an hour.

For our use in topical, we place the filtered liquid in a bain marie stainless vessel and place that into an oil bath heated to 121C/250F.

I throw four jar lids in the bottom of my electric fondue pot to suspend the container up off the bottom, to eliminate hot spots and never trust the numbers on the fondue pot dial. Instead, I use a good a mercury lab, or a digital thermometer to set the dials. Good temperature control is key to the process.

That means the device that we use to control the oil temperature must have a narrow dead band, so that the temperature control is stable.

We paid about $60 for a Quisinart fondue pot that was designed to heat sensitive sauces like chocolate and has excellent control throughout its temperature range. We scored a second one for $15 at Goodwill, so do shop about.

There are a couple of Revels in our group that are slightly larger and work well, plus cost only about $30, though they have a slightly larger dead band.

Some fry cookers have sensitive enough controls, but many deep fryers designed to primarily run at 375F, lack control sensitivity and have large dead bands at 250F.

We boil off the alcohol until the liquid is reduced to a pool of oil and all but minor bubbles cease rising at the edges and then pour in at least ten volumes of ethanol and wash out the whole pot by swirling it and washing off any resin stuck to the sides.

Using a funnel, we pour that liquid into a jar or bottle, seal it, and place that in the freezer. After about 48 hours at -18C/0F, the liquid will lose its clarity and become slightly cloudy, from marginally dissolved inactive ingredients like waxes and lipids flocculating out. There will also be precipitant on the bottom of the container. While this step isn’t totally necessary, it makes a cleaner, more pristine oil.

Next, we carefully decant and filter that liquid one more time, leaving a bell clear extract, that is ready to reduce down a final time.

We pour it into a Pyrex beaker or a stainless bain marie container for return to the oil bath and since we. have much less material, we use a smaller one container to keep film losses low.

When the oil is completely bubble I free, we remove it from the oil bath, wipe it off, and weigh it. As we know the tare weights of our containers, we subtract it from our total weight and add the rest of the required ingredients for the topical into the same container, based on the amount of cannabis oil present.

We then set the container back into the oil bath and stir until thoroughly mixed and then remove it from the container using a glass syringe, so as to not leave a streak of material in the vessel.

Attached thumbnail(s)

GW

164 responses to this post.

  1. Posted by gascan021 on March 3, 2014 at 2:43 AM

    I did a iso run awhile back, for vaporizing purposes. My product came out golder then most “absolutes” you see around (i live in san jose CA). I did the washes for 20s because i saw that any longer and it goes from gold to green to black. But just a thought, since heat distorts color, kills chlorophyll, lowers THC content and lowers clarity wouldnt it be ideal to not use any heat? or do i have heat and UV rays mixed up?
    I didnt use heat to purge at all (except for Decarb at the end), instead i left the mixture in a pyrex under a fan in a semi perfect environment. The downside was evaporation time and fumes. So i thought, if i were to make a “Fume Hood” box (a box lined with glass along with 2 fans, like a speed evaporation chamber), that essentially is a perfect environment, contains the irritating fumes and increases evaporation speed, would that lead me to not have to use any heat and my final product would be clearer, have higher thc value and better taste? or would my ppms still test high?
    Just wondering if the fume hood would make a sizable difference in my procedure, as i have not seen something like that used before, at least in my internet travels.
    One last thing, is the difference between industrial grade iso worth it over the walmart iso?
    Thanks for the compassion and for actively pushing and setting the high standard that is very much needed right now, keep it up GW!

  2. I did a iso extraction(vaporizing, not topical) awhile ago and it came out golder then i see butane extractions come out.
    I did the quick wash at around 20sec, because i saw distinct color change if keep the iso in the plant material longer.
    I just had a quick thought, if heat decreases thc content wouldnt it be advisable to not use any heat?
    When you stated that blowing air on it was ideal for a purge, this is thin-layer evaporation correct? I was wondering if you were to make a “fume hood” box that was a perfect environment blowing constant air via fans, wouldnt that completely eliminate the need for heat and the end result would be greater clarity, higher thc content and a overall cleaner oleoresin? Because most “absolutes” i see were i live (the bay area, CA) are definitely not an absolute and defiantly don’t have the clarity my iso run had. I could watch tv 20ft away thru my slab.
    One more question, what is the highest ppms you would test for iso runs(for vaporizing the oil)?
    Thanks, GW, I love the forums and this site, your definitely setting the standard that many are completely unaware of. Pls respond tho, im in need of help.

  3. Posted by Ralph on December 13, 2013 at 2:10 PM

    I’ve done the same technique technically..

    1) I use 7 grams of cured ground flower, in a small-mouth ball mason jar, I freeze that for a minimum of 2 hours, usually overnight. Along with this I freeze a bottle of 99% alcohol (most stores have 91%, it will work, but you have to work fast so the chlorophyll doesn’t go get into the extraction, this is why it’s best to try and work in your freezer.)

    2) All of this is best if taken place in a freezer if possible. I fill alcohol right to the line of the flower, I swirl the jar around in my hands, then after 30 seconds of swirling, I pour into a plastic coffee filter, like the French Chinoise, that sits into a Pyrex cup, I gently press the material onto the sides of the coffee filter, you should never see green color (chlorophyll) extracting out. I’ve noticed the less potent, the less agitation to the plant matter, the better. I use high quality medical bud, certainly potent, so I will scoop the bud out of the strainer back into the mason jar, I’ll repeat the strain again, sometimes once more, sometimes chlorophyll starts extracting out the second time, which is where I stop. I’ll throw the plant matter away, and pour a small amount of alcohol on the filter over the Pyrex cup, as there’s oils left over in the crevices of my coffee filter.

    3) I’ll take the alcohol from the Pyrex cup and pour it into a 8X8 Pyrex dish, make sure the dish is clean of any particles, I use mine to store, so it has left over oils that attract dust, nothing Dawn and a paper towel can’t fix. After pouring everything (the extracted oils in the alcohol) into the dish, I also pour a little alcohol into the cup again because it will have some left over oil, just like the strainer, I swirl it around and it usually gets everything out, you get an eye for it, the oil in the alcohol looks golden and the keif looks like wood dust.
    I put the dish on top of a boiling pot of water, 6-8 inch pot, make sure to add water constantly, have a vent on your stove top, open windows and if window fan is perfect, the fumes are manageable, but you must be extremely serious about the procedure! This is extremely dangerous. Preferably outside on a hot plate is best. Also, no smoking anywhere near the fumes. Just buy it at the dispensary if you can’t be mature or if you’re around immature people (especially.. Children!). If you can be in a place where your not next to the dish constantly it’s best, fumes from alcohol can cause serious central nervous system issues, otherwise, purchase high grade eye mouth and nose wear. High risk for explosion if spark ignites fumes from stove.

    4) DUST! My entire kitchen is very dust free, but My dish is also kept in my room where there is more dust then the kitchen, I scrape everything nice and clean into a nice glob in the middle with razors, then I put tin foil on top for storage to keep dust away. I make sure my hands are clean when I open it and when I dab on the nail and globe I will take the dabbed concentrate and roll it into new concentrate, I’ve found you can roll a small ball with your fingers easily when you do this. It
    Leaves a residue that needs to be scraped on the nail, I use this tool from my G-Pen.

    5) all around this method is very cheap and can be done at home somewhat, although it’s best to let professionals make your medicine!

  4. Posted by Fernando on December 7, 2013 at 5:18 AM

    What do you guys think of filtering the %99 isopropyl through salt to remove the %1 water? Worth the effort?

  5. you need to make some videos of this….kind of confusing

  6. Posted by Kevlar on November 7, 2013 at 7:58 PM

    Would it b okay to combine my first second and third quick wash iso 99% into one mason jar after using pasta strainer, then poor that through coffee filters abit at a time? Since I have issues with over Pouring Ink coffee filters then having it spill on to my Pyrex? As I use to putting coffee filter directly onto Pyrex the Pooring into it?

  7. Posted by kevinf on October 24, 2013 at 12:01 PM

    IPlease any Tips I will appreciate:f i do a slow iso 99% extraction with 3 runs at 20sec wash times each..14(g)potent Kings Kush…everything froze..Should I use 1 coffee filter or 2 or 3? I usually use 3..Nice buds not shake…after filtering for 20min-30min in fridge.. i usually do the warm water bath at 110of for 2/12/hrs then freeze pyrex for 3min ,then back into waterbath for 10min..then scrape to oil slick pad..i Bought a 3cfm-stage vacuum pump and have an extractionexpert chamber. if i can keep my chamber floating on water about 130of. have a towel over the top, should the inside be warm enough to purge the qwiso -99%iso to make shatter on oil slick duo pad? or better too use parchment paper? Does iso need to be vacuum purged like BHO? If so longer times frame? If i vacuum purge, will this then defeat the purpose of winterizing my qwiso? Thank you for your time..

    • It is faster to purge iso using vacuum and heat, than heat alone. You need enough heat to keep the pool liquid, for the bubbles to escape, and we use 115F for that purpose.

      I wouldn’t use an oil slick pad or parchment, until most of the solvent is gone.

  8. Qwiso Question
    in Alcohol extractions (must be a member to read). http://freemygreenpdx.com/index.php?/topic/3764-qwiso-question/

  9. Posted by Adam Pettitt on September 27, 2013 at 7:43 AM

    i did a qwiso extraction last night. It produced a fairly dark oil that remains oil at room temp, which is good I believe. It has no smell yet it tastes foul and is very very peppery. Is this usual? Apologies if I’ve posted this already, but the remarks don’t always get posted.

  10. Posted by Adam Pettitt on September 26, 2013 at 1:34 PM

    I just put some water in my rice cooker and it heats it to 180F. Using the rice cooker to boil off the iso would give me at least 51 minutes before THC starts to decline, according to the Decarb graph. Would this be suitable? Ultimately I’ll be making Holy Shit with the oil.

    Thanks

    Adam

  11. Posted by korupt on September 23, 2013 at 6:47 AM

    First off, thanks to SPR and Ed Snowden for discussing QWISO from hash. I haven’t found this much info on the subject anywhere, but I do how ever have some questions.

    Ed was asking when the source was bubble hash, how is the process done on lesser quality hash, lets assume something better than a soap bar i.e. Moroccan standard.

    The contaminants in lesser quality hash is obviously higher, but I have no clue what they consist of. I would assume it is mostly dried plant matter and waxes. How would you do it here?

    My guess is:
    1: fully dissolve the hash in ISO
    2: Filter and cook it of.
    3: Winterize (with etho ofc)
    4: Filter and cook it of.
    5: Hexane/saline wash until happy.
    6: Filter, cook off and purge.

    If I’m on the right path then any help to further filter the extraction would be appreciated. Would a water wash anywhere in the process be any beneficial?

    Thank you
    /K

    • Iso doesn’t pull that many waxes in the first place, so I would mix the Iso directly with the hexane and brine, and wash until happy.

      • Posted by korupt on September 24, 2013 at 12:45 AM

        Is it OK to let the chunks of hash fully dissolve, i.e. shake for like 3 mins in cold ISO or do you have to follow quick wash techniques with hash too? The way I understood it was that quick wash was to mainly keep chlorophyll away and there shouldn’t be much of that in hash.

  12. Posted by Adam Pettitt on September 17, 2013 at 9:40 AM

    Hi there,

    I have a question: I am going to be using trim that is well and truly dry, as it has been drying for at least a month. Do I still only perform a quick wash or can the wash be longer being as it is completely dry. Also should I be freezing the trim beforehand or not? I’m a bit confused as to when things need freezing and when they don’t.

    Thanks in advance.

  13. Posted by Relaxed Lester on September 12, 2013 at 11:28 PM

    How much longer do you think it would take to evaporate 1000 mL of 91% IPA vs. 99% IPA?

  14. Posted by 42Osi on August 9, 2013 at 4:58 PM

    After having done extensive googling I ultimately landed on your site. I would like to start by saying thank you for the wealth of information!

    I am relatively new to the process but am working on learning.

    My first few runs were all using mixed shake, with small amounts of actual solid nugget. The first process was blasting butane through an ounce of material directly into a water bath @ 120 degrees, then after an hour in the water bath another 3 hours on a hot plate @ 130-140 degrees. This yielded a dark-when-balled substance that was goldeny colored when pressed flat or stretched thin, and appeared to have almost golden shimmery streaks when stretched. The taste was poor and the smell non existent. As well when vaporizing it almost felt as though it made my throat constrict.

    All in all a bad experience.

    My 2nd run was done similarly using an ounce of mixed shake blasting into a water bath. This time I water bathed for an hour or so then proceeded to use ceramic tiles with a little parchment paper over them (for heat) & a vac purge at -29.5 for 2 Hours or so. The result was a similar, dark-when-balled, golden colored when stretched/pressed oil. This time however it had a much better aromatic to it, reminiscent of some of the strains that went in. Unfortunately however it still left me with that constricted throat, bad taste feeling.

    I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong (if anything) but I know that I have enjoyed oils that don’t leave me with this feeling.

    My question then becomes, is this potentially something that winterizing my yield will fix? Can I use the ethanol winterization process on butane blasted oils? While I am unable to fine tune some parts of my process, I’m not sure what is causing the bad yields, or how to fix the problem.

    Thanks in advance,
    Joe

    • Winterizing makes me cough less. My chest gets heavy and constricted, after testing several strains of non-winterized oil.

      Ethanol does a good job of winterizing BHO and is what we use.

      • Posted by 42Osi on August 10, 2013 at 5:31 PM

        I started the process, using probably a bit more ethanol than I needed, but what I saw was the most bizarre thing. The black mass dissolved relatively quickly, however it left behind floating white chunks of, well I don’t really know what is it. I was doing this on a VERY small scale to try it out first (.5 of bho dissolved).

        Are these waxes I’m seeing? The chunks are… sizable, not quite what I thought I would be seeing. As well as the chunks there are some small white flakes.

        As I’ve been unable to find much video documentation on the process, I figured I would ask again here – is this what I should be expecting to see or has something gone wrong?

        Thanks!

        • From the forum that you’re commenting on, I infer that you did a QWISO extraction and redissolved in Ethanol, in which case the chunks probably are waxes. Isopropyl is less polar than Ethanol, so it will extract more non polar plant waxes.

  15. Posted by Ed Snowden on July 30, 2013 at 10:59 AM

    Great info. Have some questions regarding a qwiso extraction of pressed bubble hash and pressed dry ice kief. For material prep, I am thoroughly drying material in a food dehydrator, and then both breaking it up manually and using a cusinart. The kief readily breaks down into almost powder, yet the bubble is much more of a pain and tends to stay in pebble form, especially the more oily and gooey bubble.

    1. Is there a good way to prep the bubble or is it the case where I just do my best and then use additional agitation and possibly stirring to achieve complete dissolution of the bubble in solution?

    2. Is there any advantage gained by freezing the kief or bubble prior to extraction?

    3. I have half gallon mason jars for the extraction, and 99% iso. What is an optimal ratio for kief to iso? for bubble to iso?

    4. Once the mixture is in the mason jars and sealed, is gentle shaking for approx 3 min (I am guessing this will be the time for kief, and that more may be required for the bubble) enough or is stirring a good idea?

    5. When you are pouring out the mixture through a coffee filter, whats a good way to set this up? I was thinking of just putting the coffee filters over the top of the mason jar and securing in place with thick rubber band and inverting.

    6. Is there any advantage gained by winterizing kief or bubble in an iso solution?

    7. How much of a difference will I notice between doing a simple blow dry and using a vac pump?

    8. My local grow shop has heating pads intending for seedlings, they say 10-20 deg above ambient temp, is this good for the drying stage, or is a 140F pad necessary?

    9. For storage, what do you recommend? I was thinking of wrapping in wax paper, putting in tupperware, and then freezing it.

    Thanks for taking the time and spreading great knowledge, it is much appreciated!

    • 1 I get good results extracting the granules of bubble as is. If you agitate regularly to keep the boundary layers removed, ISO will readily dissolve the resins, and leave behind non polar waxes and the like.

      2 No advantages to freezing before extraction and that will slow down the process.

      3 Probably around 3:1 or greater. The Iso will saturate at somewhere around 1:1 molar, but achieving 50% mostly happens in heaven unless you are reflux boiling.

      I would plan on 30% as a starting point. Even less saturation means more extraction speed but , at the cost of more alcohol and more time evaporating it off.

      4 The reason for the frozen quick wash with green material, is to avoid chlorophyll pickup, which you ostensibly won’t have with kif or bubble, so you wash it as long as it takes to dissolve the hash.

      I would recommend a second wash to glean anything left behind.

      5 I like to just invert the jar and dump it through a wire strainer, into a restaurant size coffee filter, in a coffee maker basket. I use a French Chinoise strainer, with about a 10mm mesh, which is stout enough that I can press the alcohol out of the material.

      6 Isopropyl is not highly polar, so it isn’t prime for winterizing. Ethanol or Methanol would be better.

      Iso also doesn’t extract as many non polar waxes as the simple alkanes like butane or hexane, so winterizing is less needed.

      7 Lots of difference between a vacuum purge and a blow dry. Even in a thin film, a blow dry requires more heat to keep the film liquid enough for the solvent to escape.

      8. Depends on what you want to make. We run our mat at 115F to produce shatter.

      9. No wax paper, unless you want wax in your oil. I store mine in a sealed blue glass container.

      Peace, GW

      • Posted by Ed Snowden on August 1, 2013 at 11:02 AM

        Thanks for answering my questions, helps a lot. At the moment I don’t have easy access to eveclear (Ca has it banned, but the local grow store sells 99% iso by the gallon, lol).
        I’m going to go ahead and get a vacuum pump, and wanted to know what you think would be good quality/choice?
        I’m also not exactly clear on what the ideal steps are.
        If I’m using a vacuum pump, is this the right idea:
        1. Reduce material by filtering winterized solution through coffee filter onto pyrex plate, and then placing it on top of a reptile heating pad or similar, and waiting for most of iso to evaporate before scrapping up material, placing into a glass container and into vac chamber?

        Is the reduction on heated oil necessary when you have a vac chamber?

        Do you have any tips for efficiently processing larger amounts of material?

        Any success in finding a good surface that is significantly bigger than the average pyrex plate? I was thinking of winterizing larger volumes of solution and then reducing it at once.

        • Iso will work, or you can have the ethanol shipped to you from http://organicalcohol.com/store/

          I have had good luck with the CPS VP6S single stage vacuum pump.

          You can cold boil the alcohol solution under vacuum with out heat, but you will need a cold trap to keep the alcohol vapor out of your pump crankcase, or change your pump oil several times as the oil level reaches high limits.

          A rotary evaporator would be the way to process large volumes, but a rectangular casserole dish in a vacuum oven, has more area than a pie plate.

  16. Posted by BluJayz on July 19, 2013 at 7:02 PM

    I was re reading the page and caught the part about freezing it after dilluteing in eth/meth. Is that necessary when cleaning ISO and if so do you re heat and strain or how to separate the wax and ISO? Thanks.

  17. Posted by BluJayz on July 19, 2013 at 9:57 AM

    Thank you, a wealth of knowledge here!

  18. Posted by BluJayz on July 19, 2013 at 9:28 AM

    So you winterize ISO with ethanol not methanol? Strain or boil off? Thanks!

  19. Posted by BluJayz on July 18, 2013 at 7:17 PM

    Do you use dentured or everclear?

  20. Posted by RhythmSystem on July 9, 2013 at 3:44 PM

    Hello Friend and thanks soooo much for all this amazing info!
    I am now in the process of trying to reduce Kief down to Oil to Shatter or close to it using alcohol without a vac setup. So when I found this thread you can imagine my excitement.

    I am curious to the specifics of the QWISO process that you would use with just Kief sieved through 120-150 Microns. I saw you mention it above a couple times but not enough to quench my curiosity about how you would apply your methods to a more pure concentrate such as Kief and in the end have your findings shown that it is or is not worth it to make kief be your starting material for non-polar extractions?

    More questions would include: times of wash? Agitate wash or let it sit? Would there be different advantages of ISO vs Ethanol for both wash and winterizing when using kief? After first wash filtered through the would it be ready for winterization?

    I have also read about kief clumping in a non-polar process sticking to itself and an idea I had was layering the kief in steel wool before adding alcohol as to help create the natural space between terpenes that exists when washing bud or trim. I feel this may help in the draining of the first wash as well to keep the coffee filter less clogged.

    One last thought… When working extensively with polar extractions I had made a monumental discovery, by letting the water filtered through a 220 BB settle with lots of ice overnight I found that in the morning ALL of my terpenes would settle to the bottom, at this point I started running 5 loads in one pull after I realized that a day of washing and draining into the same tote then settling overnight would literally allow me to siphon the top water off as well as 80 percent of my labor leaving all the goodness caked at the bottom with about 4 inches of water, then I would run with a gallon of fresh ice water to help rinse all the terpenes to their separate bags considering the amount of water left was small. So my thought is…. will the yummy oils in a non-polar extraction settle like this? If so then couldnt I apply the same concept and siphon most of the alcohol off the top after winterizing?
    Ok Ill stop now… sorry for flooding the page, but you really have no idea how excited I am to have found you. Thanks again … Blessings

    • Once the kif is separated from the green plant material, you can soak it in isopropyl as long as you like and you don’t have to do it frozen. Just mix them together and shake periodically until dissolved.

      Don’t worry about the wash time with kif, only with frozen green plant material when doing QWET or QWISO.

      Technically, winterizing is extracting with a non polar solvent and redissolving in a polar solvent, before freezing to coagulate and precipitate the non polar plant waxes, so that they can be removed by filtration.

      Since Iso and ethanol are both polar, the best you can do is extract with less polar isopropyl and winterize with the more polar ethanol. Neither should pick up that many non polar waxes anyway.

      I suspect you mean that the trichomes, rather than the terpenes settled to the bottom. After a solvent extraction, the trichomes have their essential oil removed and it is mostly stems and discs left.

  21. Posted by Richard on June 12, 2013 at 1:42 AM

    So I don’t have a vac purger, can I still get all the iso out? That is my main concern with making this, and I don’t make it enough or have enough cash for the vac and chamber..

    • Yes you can purge the Iso to below detectable limits if you keep it in a thin film and purge below 130F until the solvent bubbles cease and you can’t smell or taste the alcohol.

      • Posted by Richard on June 14, 2013 at 11:20 PM

        Should i still put my product in the oven? I would on be using around 7gs if i was to do it. Ive heard to put everything in the freezer iso, product. But i just want to make sure im doing right. Nothing worse than waste.

      • Posted by Chris on June 15, 2013 at 9:30 AM

        Why would the solution bubble at 130F. Nothing in the solution boils at that temp.

        • Sorry bro, moment of insanity! I had my head in a vacuum at the time. Without vacuum assist, you have to rely on your sense of taste and smell to determine when the solvent is all gone.

          • Posted by Jane on June 25, 2013 at 1:51 PM

            sorry to put this here I can’t find a contact link. I am trying to follow the recipe for extraction that Rick Simpson endorses for oral medicine. I can’t find the “pure naptha” he says to use. I am wondering if I can use this stuff I found that is an Ethanol (denatured) and Ethyl acetate Blend. On the package it says it is a ethanol, Isopropal blend.
            Any thoughts or advice?

          • Yes, my thoughts are that it isn’t suitable for extraction.

            There is no such thing as pure naphtha, the name only designates a boiling point range and can include any number of things that are insalubrious, such as benzene and components with a boiling point as high as 200C/392F.

            If the Naphtha were made in heaven for extraction, it would be made of Hexane and Pentane. Hexane and Pentane both fall in the “light Naphtha” boiling point range of 30C/90C, and don’t contain Benzene, so that is what we use instead of Naphtha. You can get HPLC grade of Hexane or Pentane at American Scientific in Portland, or other scientific supply house.

  22. Posted by Chris on June 7, 2013 at 8:40 PM

    Please help,
    Tried this method and just got tested by analytical360. 78%thc and 2%cbd.
    Those are good numbers but the residual iso content was 50000ppm. I heated my oil to between 250 and 260 degrees using a fondue pot. How can I get the iso content down?

    • 250F is high enough to get rid of residual Iso, if you leave it in the hot oil until the larger irregular bubbles cease, and only the fine fizzy bubbles remain.

      You can also pull a -29.5″ Hg vacuum on it at around 115F to quickly remove the residuals.

      • Posted by Chris on June 15, 2013 at 9:37 AM

        I thought I did that, twice. Once with the iso and again with the everclear. I’ll try another batch and see what happens. Do you test your iso oil and what residual numbers do you get. I can’t smell or taste any alcohol in my oil but analytical says it’s at 50,000 ppm. I don’t get it.

        • I don’t get it either, if you have purged and decarboxylated in 250F oil. We are typically under 100ppm.

          How deep is the film that you are purging and at what point did you cease purging?

          How are they testing it? It would almost have to be a head space test, because the alcohol injection spike would cover the residual alcohol using a standard test.

          • Posted by Chris on June 19, 2013 at 6:23 AM

            Thank you so much for your quick response time and patience on these posts. I would guess the oil at completion was less than 1″ deep. I kept it on the heat until there were only a few small bubbles, at that point I popped the bubbles, then waited about 30 minutes and checked for bubbles, no bubbles. Analytical 360 uses some type of cold testing, not G.C.
            I haven’t made a new batch yet, still trying to figure how to use the wife’s oven without getting in trouble. I’m going to take it slow and really make sure to pay attention to the details. If I still get bad results I will try another testing lab.

          • I would suggest a larger dish or doing it in smaller batches, to reduce film thickness and increase surface area. 1″ is much too deep a pool. 1/8″ would be about perfect.

  23. Posted by Helio on May 29, 2013 at 10:54 PM

    If you have a choice between 99% isopropyl and 95% ethyl (Everclear), which extractor would you go with? Or do you feel the results are generally even?

  24. Posted by Seth on May 29, 2013 at 2:35 PM

    i’ve started using an aeropress to filter the material and trying to approximate the contact time to bho running through a tube…been working awesome so far…but the aeropress is made of plastic, are there any issues with the iso interacting with the plastic i should be concerned about? the iso itself is originally packaged in a plastic bottle, but i know not all plastics are the same…anything to worry about?

    • The Copolyester shell looks to be OK to about 150F, but it is unclear what they are using for the elastomer on the plunger and Iso is a pretty aggressive alcohol, so I would recommend contacting them and asking what they are using.

      • Posted by Seth on May 30, 2013 at 4:24 PM

        this info help at all?

        “The AeroPress is made of three different plastics. The clear chamber and plunger are made of copolyester. The hard black filter cap, filter holder, funnel, and stirrer are made of polypropylene. The rubber like seal on the end of the plunger is made of a thermoplastic elastomer. All of these materials are FDA approved for use in contact with food. None of these materials contain bisphenol-A (BPA) or any phthalates, chemicals that have been in the news lately because of possible health effects.

        Aerobie has been shipping AeroPress coffee makers made of the materials described above since August 1st, 2009. Prior to that date, the clear chamber and plunger were made of a very special high humidity and temperature resistant polycarbonate. Polycarbonate does not contain phthalates but it does contain BPA. Even though the FDA and other governmental agencies around the world approve polycarbonate for use in contact with food, we had an independent lab test coffee brewed in a well used AeroPress to determine how much, if any, BPA leaches into coffee brewed in a polycarbonate AeroPress. Absolutely none was detected. Given that result, one could ask why we switched to using copolyester. The answer is simple. The use of copolyester removes any perceived risk from BPA and it is a more attractive material.”

  25. Posted by Chris on May 26, 2013 at 9:41 AM

    Skunk pharms rocks!
    You suggest drying the plant material in the oven, could the drying be done in a vacuum chamber? My wife gets upset when I use her kitchen. He he he.

    • You could vacuum dry the material, but the oven would be way faster.

      Yeah, I have to be nice to Grayfox when I wreck the kitchen and stink up the house. I usually close off the kitchen and open the outside door to the patio, in conjunction with two fans providing draft and exhause.

      • I use a 5-gallon food-grade bucket sealed with lid and gasket and filled about half full with silica gel kitty litter to dry my herb. Works great, dries to 70% humidity here). I reactivate the silica on cookie sheets in the oven before each run. Nowhere near as fast as oven-drying, (takes several days locked in the bucket), but I’m trying to preserve the THCA.

        • Wow, that comment got garbled. It should have said the weed dries to less than 15% humidity and that we normally have greater than 70% humidity. It appears all text enclosed inside angle brackets, even when one uses them as less-than and greater-than symbols gets elided by WordPress.

        • Thanks for sharing bro!

  26. Posted by sadhu on May 11, 2013 at 9:28 AM

    After doing a QWISO extraction ……….. what’s the most effective wash or winterize . Ethanol , sodium chloride …………..or ………could I do both ?

    • Iso extracts more non polar waxes than Ethanol, so winterizing will drop out some stuff, but not much. Redissolving in Hexane and brine washing will wash out any water solubles that you’ve picked up.

      Hopefully if you have done a frozen QWISO by the numbers, there will be very little needing washing out. Every extra thing that you do to the oil, costs more lighter terpenes.

  27. I every time used to study article in news papers but now as I am a user of internet so from now I am using
    net for articles, thanks to web.

  28. Posted by sadhu on May 5, 2013 at 11:20 AM

    Is there any advantage to using anhydrous ipa ( 99.8 + % ) compared to regular 99 % ipa?

  29. Posted by James on April 23, 2013 at 5:10 PM

    This is my tutorial completely based off of things i learned on this website!
    http://boards.cannabis.com/concentrates/205709-great-iso-alcohol-method-high-potency-next-no-green.html

  30. Posted by Erik on April 10, 2013 at 2:59 PM

    What are the cheapest and most available options for non-polar solvents? I am located in canada, where everclear is not sold. I will continue to snoop around but it appears the best i can find is bacardi 151. If I have QWISO made and heat purged, with residual waxes and unwanted cloudiness what steps can I take to further purge?

  31. Posted by dboy on February 20, 2013 at 6:26 PM

    I followed your stepd and made my first QWISO extraction with your method however, there isa cloudy white milky liquid substance towards the end of the evaporation process. when using other methods I do not recall seeing this. This is the first time I am using 99 percent alcohol all other times was only 91.

  32. Posted by Mike on February 20, 2013 at 7:00 AM

    i just made some beautiful rock hard, lemon jolly rancher looking qwiso. I had her on low heat (100-110f) for 3 hrs, allowed to cool then scraped and repurged at the same temps for another 30 min or so and still seems to have some solvent left in it as when i put a lighter to it, it sparkles lol
    im afraid of using higher heat as i heard it ruins the flavour, but all im reading hear are temps around 140-240 aswell as decarbing which i thought happened when vaping the concentrates.
    just seems to me that i need more time than 3+hrs at those temps. ive thought about purging in the oven but it only goes as low as 170.
    do you think that temp is ok in terms of flavour??
    thanks in advance

    • I like 115F at -29-9″ Hg for our strains.

      To retain the oil mostly in its carboxylic acid form, we use 125/140F without vacuum or a 250F hot oil pot for purging and decarboxylating oil.

      170F will cause some decarboxylation and soften your oil. You will also lose some of the mono and sesquiterpenes, along with their flavors.

  33. Posted by Sam on February 16, 2013 at 3:14 PM

    if i QWISO my material, run it a few times through a vaccum filter then winterize in ethanol, will i get absolute “amber”?
    if not, then how can i get the chlorophyl out?

    my aim is to get all the cannabinoids off the plant material in a single extraction and to produce some clean looking shatter glass while am at it.

    TIA wolf.

    • No, an Absolute is a non polar extraction, that has been winterized to remove the waxes, using a polar solvent like ethanol. The Ethanol wash will remove some of the undesirables extracted by the Isopropyl, because Iso is a more agressive solvent.

      If you are looking for a clean shatter, you are better off not extracting the chlorophyll in the first place, as the steps required to remove it, will most likely also decarboxylate the oil, which will make it runnier.

      I would suggest using frozen extraction techniques and keeping the different pulls separate. You can extract with one pull, but it will have significant chlorophyll pickup.

      You can also switch to a non polar extraction like butane, pentane, or hexane, which will limit chlorophyll pickup.

      • Posted by Sam on February 19, 2013 at 1:18 PM

        Im really more like moving away from butane see. its too complicated and smelly for my current purpose and situation.

        I do still want to put together a “mini” terp’ using 4×6″ spools for the reservoir and tank and 1.5×18″ for the column but i wont mess with butane any more until i’ve the equipment to do lossless butane extractions.

        what do you think about the dimensions i have in mind for the mini terp?

  34. Posted by Dboy on February 16, 2013 at 10:56 AM

    If being used for vaporization once “When the alcohol is visually gone, place the dish on a 140F heat mat, or float it in a hot water dish, until the smell and taste of the Isopropyl is gone, usually around 30 minutes to an hour.” is completed is it ready for use or does it need to go through further processing?

    • Should be ready to use. If it has an off flavor purge longer.

      Joe

      • Posted by Dboy on February 18, 2013 at 12:33 PM

        I am worried about the residual solvents left in the final product…is the qwiso or the qwet or bho method one better than the other? I read one of your articles that mentioned concentrates do not contain the free radicals like smoke does, but I still have concerns with the concentrate vapor and or vapor from a volcano vaporizer using bud(which I have used for the past 4 years)

        Your site is the MOST informative sight I have found!

        Thanks!

        • With proper time and temperature during purging there’s no reason to worry about residual solvents. All three are innocuous in small volumes as vapor. I don’t off hand know what the threshold for isopropanol is but I’m positive its far past its detection limit with your olfactory senses. In other words don’t let it bother you unless the taste bothers you.

          Joe

          • Posted by dboy on February 20, 2013 at 11:02 AM

            In your observations, what are the advantages and disadvantages with of both qwet and qwiso? In terms of extraction process (time and work) and final product (best tasting and potency)?

            Thanks again!

          • Both work, Iso is cheaper and ethanol is more salubrious. Iso is more agressive and does in about 15/20 seconds, what it takes ethanol to do in 3 minutes.

            Iso fumes are more explosive than ethanol and more poisonous to breath.

            Iso is a pungent alcohol, that has to be purged to lower limits to get beyond human taste threshold limits.

      • Posted by NLD on April 26, 2013 at 10:52 AM

        Can I skip the heating step and instead leave my oil spread thin in a pyrex plate covered with cheese cloth for a few days?

  35. Posted by Dr teeth on February 13, 2013 at 1:04 AM

    Do you typically heat material that is intended to be vaporized? Aren’t you decarboxilizing when you do remove moisture out of the raw plant material? Sorry for my ignorance, it’s just unclear to me.

  36. Posted by choof on February 11, 2013 at 9:51 AM

    Excellent, that is what I expected, as any residual iso would make beautiful oil sad,, I use this same method for my reclamation process, with the 246 degree oil bath curve , an an infrared & candy thermometer, usually taking the opportunity to winterize the solution as well, thanks for your reply.

  37. Posted by choof on February 10, 2013 at 4:57 PM

    so qwiso for vaporiziong can be simply water purged and then heated to 140 for 30 minutes and it safe?? seems the oil bath method would be safest and cleanest for vaporizing -taste???

    • It would probably be safe, but not very tasty with the residual Iso.

      If I was making QWISO for vaporizing, I would probably blow dry the bulk of the alcohol and then cook off the remainder.

      We use a 250F oil bath when we are decarboxylating the oil afterwards anyway.

      • Posted by frank l jones on April 28, 2013 at 10:02 AM

        greetings,thank you for such fine info Im wondering about your oil bath temps
        Im wanting to purchase a hotplate with heat senser and stir set up
        would this hot plate with stirrer work instead,?or would it be best to use
        a fondue pot set up?
        hope you have time to get back to me
        thank you
        frank

        • Depends on what you are using it for. Most hot plates aren’t controlable in the 80 to 115F range used for some processes, but would work for processing at temperatures above that.

          I prefer a Quisinart fondue pot with Canola oil in it. The purpose of the double boiler oil bath set up, is to keep the heat even and constant, where even some expensive lab hotplates have hot spots.

        • Posted by frank jones on May 6, 2013 at 4:54 PM

          thanks for your reply,as I compose this Im waiting for my fondue set up to arrive by mail
          have to admit ive had so many questions but from hanging out at your web site from the photos many questions were evident,I did complete my first
          Qwiso it was awesome 3 runs with 1 once of sugary trin and popcorn
          ,return was close 2.75 gms each run way different from each other
          I do wanna ask about the filtered solution when transferring to evaporate
          how deep to fill a pyrex pie plate?
          thank you very much
          frank

          • Depends somewhat on the viscosity of the alcohol mixture, but at a 10:1 dilution, between .250″ and .375″, will leave a .025 to .037 thin film behind, which is easy to quickly purge, especially under vacuum.

  38. Your amazing the more I read. Is it possible to winterize in the iso instead of changing it to everclear? I thought I read something like that in one of these discussions but now I can’t find it. I see in this one you say to evaporate out the iso. I’m really excited to be able to get real answers with the science behind it. Some forums can be so frustrating because people talk but don’t know. You obviously know. Thanks for sharing!

  39. Posted by darken9 on January 20, 2013 at 10:08 AM

    Thanks GW for the tutorial. Very informative. Are there any videos of the process available?
    Also, what oil is used in the oil bath?
    Cheers again,
    Dar

  40. Posted by The8l8 on January 18, 2013 at 10:12 PM

    Thank you for putting time and effort in sharing your knowledge with everybody.

    I learnt alot from reading all this.

    I would also love to show you my own qwiso extracts but I dont own any good quality cameras.

    My last batch was from some excellent quality indoor grown white widow, and from the first extraction came out a stable product showing a light yellow with a tint of green.

    Taste delicious tho,

    • Thanks for the good thoughts T818! Good to hear youare already making our own quality extracts and would love to see your pictures when you get a suitable camera. We need to drop a bundle there, but so far have continued to stay broke by dropping our bundles on more pressing needs than recording what we’ve already done.

  41. Posted by Level1extractor on January 4, 2013 at 10:48 PM

    Great Website! Would it be possible to place trim/bud in a mason jar with solid pieces of dry ice and shake for x amount of time to remove all the kief/trichromes from the bud leaving waxes/chlorophyll behind and then do a warm QWISO extraction with the left over kief/trichromes soaking it longer (around 5min) to dissolve the kief/trichromes into the oil and then extracting that way? Would this prevent contamination from plant material or would you be wasting your time with unnecessary steps and materials.

    • A solvent extraction from kif, is easier to keep pristine, than one from the bud material. For that reason, we once extracted most of the oil we made for cancer patients, from bubble using ethanol.

      It is more time consuming, and produces a lower yield than extracting directly from the bud with a non polar solvent, but the effects can be stunning.

  42. Posted by herban on December 23, 2012 at 9:56 PM

    hi there, I have a good deal of pressed, surface melt coldwater hash that I want to powder and extract the best volatile oil from and as its only surface melt and I know there is a good deal of water soluble and undesirable inactive content to it, I do not know enough to decide whether I should use the 99% iso that I have, or if I should invest in some everclear for the task. How do you suppose the quality/yield of the two would differ and which would be the better route? If I qwiso it, I will not winterize or otherwise do anything to further refine it and the qwiso will be my finished product as is so please make a recommendation accordingly. Also how long is a resonable time to wash for either? Thanks alot and happy holidays, herban

    • If you adequately purge, you can use either. Isopropyl is a pungent alcohol, so is a little harder to purge below detectable limits. When frozen, we use a 30 second quick wash for Isopropyl and 3 minutes for 190 proof EtOh.

  43. Posted by Hunter on December 7, 2012 at 7:58 AM

    Hey guys, I attempted this method recently with a bit of dry-ice extracted kiefy powder that I had sitting around from a few months ago. I froze kief+91% ISO overnight > added ISO to kief jar > shook for 10 seconds. When I attempted to strain it, I found that the kief clogged up the filter a bit, causing it to take over 30 minutes to strain through. The strained material still contained a fair amount of particulate, so i attempted to filter once more. I then poured the liquid into a pyrex and double boiled to evaporate ISO.

    Material that eventually was scraped came out a bit chunky, and tastes pretty harsh. First experience with QWISO, would this be worth running with ethanol?

    I believe this “kief” has a fair amount of pulverized plant material in it and am curious what method would be preferred to improve this material. Have tried BHO and QWISO, with disappointing results, would you just press it in a cannabutton-like process?

    • You can extend the soak time to several minutes using kif, as the source of most of the chlorophyll and other water solubles, has been removed.

      I use a French Chinoise to strain out most of the stuff and then refilter it with a coffee filter or vacuum filter with a Whatman #1. See at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinoise

      I also wash out the filtrate with fresh solvent, to remove any residual oils.

      It will definitely be harsh with residual plant material, so you might redissolve it in ethanol and refilter it.

      Pressing kief into cannabuttons will make something akin to hash, which will be smoother, but anything with burning cellulose fibers in it, will be harsh on the lungs.

      Prime Absolute Amber makes me cough, even when vaporized, as it is an expectorant. It isn’t a harsh irritating cough like with smoke however, and gets under any congestion so that it is expelled.

      • Posted by hunter on December 14, 2012 at 3:32 PM

        Appreciate the advice.I think that I had some residual ISO in the product as well, stuck it in the oven for a few minutes, resulting in some pretty active melting and bubbling. Tastes quite a bit better now.

        Currently trying to make hash/cannabutton by folding 5 gm chuncks into parchment-paper envelope, heating a bit with a hair straightener, and pressing under a desk w/ me sitting on it. Slow process, but it is definitely helping!

        thanks again for spreading the knowledge, you guys are amazing!

    • Posted by Shannon on December 10, 2012 at 12:50 AM

      With keif you can do your wash at room temp or warmer then freeze and filter the alcohol to remove fats, lipids, waxes etc.

      • Starting with kif is an excellent way to extract prime oil using a polar solvent like alcohol.

        After some initial reflux experiments with ethanol, I originally produced all of our oil by cold soak or refluxing bubble hash in 190 proof. I have since switched to non-polar extraction for the bulk of our oil, but one of the advantages of using a polar solvent like Iso or Ethanol, is that the waxes and lipids are relatively non polar, so not as many waxes and lipids are extracted in the first place. As you note, freezing the solution will drop out the what does.

        Switching to a non polar solvent solved my need to start with kif, but it did increase the amount of waxes and fats requiring removal afterwards.

  44. I made (tried to make) some QWISO with 99% IPA. Everything was going great until I put the strained IPA in the Pyrex pie plate. The IPA was not evaporating very quickly, I was using a fan blowing ripples on the IPA. The last time I looked at it (after 4-5 hrs.), it had gotten milky. Is this water? It has been raining off & on the last couple of days, 50-65 degrees & high humidity. Does IPA absorb water from the atmoshere? Is there a safe way to evaporate IPA with heat(without a hood)?

    • Iso starts with some water in it and extracts a lot more from the plant material, besides drawing it from atmospheric humidity. Water turns Iso milky, but the milkyness goes away once the water is evaporated off.

      I evaporate off iso in an electric fondue pot full of hot canola oil, which I set outside and blow the fumes away with a fan.

      • Posted by Ken on November 19, 2012 at 9:27 PM

        I looked beautiful until it had been in the Pyrex pie plate with a fan on for about an hour. The next morning I floated the Pyrex in hot water. I kept the water temp. at 130-140F. This time I put it in a bldg. that was warmer/drier. All of the white disappeared, and it thickened-up. I left it in the hot water for another 30 min. I scraped it up. It hardened within a minute. It has a nice amber color with a little green. It melts fast, clean, and tastes good. It is a little harsh on the exhale. Smaller dabs cure this! Overall I am very pleased (excited) with the results!
        Thanks for help!

  45. Posted by kandro81 on November 13, 2012 at 10:22 PM

    Hi guys the extract ive made for my g pen is a qwiso extract .
    I made it because from experience I know how melty and delicious qwiso can be.
    but its too waxy and stable and has too much residue when cashed.
    I need something less stable thats liquid all the time.
    I read a qwiso post on ommp pay it forward saying that after your qwiso is reduced to stir it back into some iso again
    freeze it then strain out the waxy solids that solidifie on the bottom. they called the strained liquid a bell clear liquid
    does anyone think this might work to destabilize my qwiso keeping it liquid and purifying  it further to the point its atleast liquidy and leaves less residue when cashed.
    does anyone with qwiso refining experience have any info on this. I prefer less dangerous methods involving as few chemicals as possible.
    the qwiso article posted here didnt mention stability. it didnt say if it would be a more purified stable wax or a runny oil when finished and a purified runny oil is what Im looking for???

    • I would suggest that you redissolve the QWISO in hot 190 proof Ethanol, instead of Isopropyl again, freeze the solution for at least 48 hours, and then filter it again.

      Because of the differences in dielectric constants, the Isopropyl will pick, up more non polar waxes than Ethanol, so everything won’t redissolve, and some of what does will fall out of solution as the temperature drops.

      Re-dissolving in Isopropyl would have less effect, but the added filtration might help with clarity, if you have fine suspended solids present.

      We use a commercial coffee filter for general filtration, a Whatman #1 for vacuum assisted filtration, and a 0.2 micron syringe filter for maximum clarity
      That will remove some of the constitutes that make it cloudy and if you decarboxylate the oil following ethanol purge, it will make it less viscous. We use about 70% decarboxylation for maximum THC effect, and 100% for more sedative requirements.

      We use decarboxylated oil in our 510 e-pen carts, and just inject it into the wick hot, using a glass syringe and hypodermic needle.

  46. Posted by adam on October 27, 2012 at 7:31 PM

    91% is that ok isoproyl wise or to much water? 99% preferred or necessary?

  47. Posted by Liam on October 21, 2012 at 2:15 PM

    If a qwiso extraction has taken on a completely solid, glass like consistency subsequent to one hours thin film purging over low heat, Is it possible for it to still contain some residual alcohol? What is the best way to be 100% sure that your extract is fully purged of iso?

    • You can thin film purge it under high vacuum, or decarboxylate the oil at 250F without vacuum, and drive off any residuals.

      If you just keep the oil in a thin film molten state and blow filtered air over it, it will keep the enriched boundary layers blown away, and encourage more rapid evaporation of the residual volatiles.

  48. Posted by kannamed on October 11, 2012 at 6:28 AM

    Thanks for your great website! I’ve made several RSO extractions for medical use, successfully. However, after reading your post on QWISO extraction, I feel that by decarbing and freezing, the extraction should be cleaner and stronger. I’m getting ready to try your QWISO extraction and would like to ask you two questions: Once the buds or leafs are dry (10 days after harvest) does it make any sense to go through a curing process, since the oil will be decarbed any way? Is the liquid used in the fondue pot (to set the Pyrex beaker in) regular cooking oil?

    • Thanks for your good thoughts!

      There is no advantage to curing after you reach the 10/15% moisture content, where the small twigs snap.

      We use Canola oil in the cooking pot, because it works well and is cheap.

      GW

  49. If im making a qwiso for vaporizing and I extract the material twice without drying in between washes, just going straight back to the freezer, What is a typical yield to expect per ounce? Sometimes I use high quality fine trimmings with little to no shade leaf and small buds in it, and sometimes i use straight high quality flowers.How many grams of QWISO should I expect to be getting with two washes per ounce of either?

  50. Posted by Liam Morgan on August 18, 2012 at 5:37 PM

    Ive managed to produce results im for the most part quite pleases with lately following a slighltly simplified version of this same procedure. I have one question that comes to mind regarding how one of the steps could be clearer. After one extraction has been done and is says “We set the material aside to dry and refreeze for a second extraction.” , what method are you using to fully dry the plant material for a second extraction before refreezing it? Or are you just refreezing as is directly after first strain, which is what I did?

  51. Howdy folks, I made some QWISO yesterday and had some funny results. It’s RED! It tastes good, smells good, but is not very potent. I’m curious why it turned red and why it isn’t very comparable to the buds, which are very potent. You may want to know my process to help but first I’ll post some pictures and see if you can help from that.

    Is this cloudyness the wax and plant material or the oil? Question from Member asks at pay it forward

    • Hi bro! QWISO makes a red oil, compared to Ethanol. If you redissolve QWISO in Ethanol, it will drop out a red waxy substance, that won’t redissolve.

      Cloudyness in a QWISO can be retained water or small bubbles. How was it purged?

      • Posted by weedwhat on June 20, 2012 at 9:16 PM

        Frozen trim placed in large mason jar > washed 30-45 seconds with 99% iso alcohol > strained through coffee filters into pyrex baking dish > placed pyrex dish onto hot water bath that was at approx 200-240 degrees until alcohol was evaporated. also had a fan blowing high speed the entire time

        I believe it was strain related. It was the first sativa I’ve processed with this method. The indica oils I’ve made like this turned out as expected, golden brown honey colored.

        Would it be possible to re-dissolve it in 99% Iso and run it through coffee filters a few more times to get rid of the waxyness?

        • Unfortunately no. Iso will continue to redissolve the same things.

          Your process looks OK, though I use a 20/30 second wash. It is most likely related to material, and I suspect anthocyanins are the source of the color in the wax, as the wax itself is light tan colored. It would probably take a non polar wash to get rid of the polar cyanins.

    • by any chance was any of the process done near a window? exposure to UV light tends to turn qwiso rusty, especially at the point where it is dissolved in the ISO, this could obviously also explain your reduced potency?

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