Vaporizing Oil

As many of ya’ll know, burning cannabis may be damn tasty, but sadly it produces some of the same free radicals as burning tobacco.

To its credit, to date research shows that statistically the effects of these cannabis free radicals are less damaging that the same radicals from tobacco, due to the neuroprotective properties of the cannabinoids present.

If that is good enough for you, then you are in luck, but if the term statistically less damaging bothers you too, consider that there are no free radicals created when vaporizing the oil instead of burning it.

If that sounds better, you will be pleased that there is more than one method available to vaporize cannabis essential oils, and that it opens up new horizons with the improved tastes and effects, when pyrolysis isn’t present!

In this thread, we will review the different methods of vaporizing and post our own skunk pharmer observations and impressions, but in addition, we will present them this year to student volunteer patient test panels at this seasons classes, and report their impressions and comments.

Our students provide a better cross section of the general OMMP patient population, than just us’n skunk pharmers, so we will hopefully get some insights from their observations.  Students thus far have ranged from young ingénue, to retired hoary old farts like myself.

Looking at vaporization methods available, probably the simplest is a hot knife and a funnel, and the more complex is the evolving E-Cigarette market.

Let’s kick this thread off with a comparison of three of the current mainstream methods to vaporize oil, and follow with alternatives and systems evolving as we speak.  Those three mainstream methods are the skillet, nail, and wand.  From there, we will move on to other systems, such as the DIY D-lighter, and E-Cigarettes, etc.

Looking at the systems alphabetically, we will use an Agnostic Taoist oil well, with wands from borosilicate, quartz, and CP Titanium, the Hash Master Kut Curve Skillet, and the KO Domeless Nail.

Before moving there, lets discuss glass versus Titanium nails, skillets, and wands.  Suffice to say, that amongst aficionados, there is a divided camp on whether glass or Ti produces the best flavor, but without exception thus far, our volunteer patient test panels liked the flavor reproduction by a well seasoned Titanium wand best, not that any found the flavor reproduction by the glass wands bad.

My own impression is that glass wands taste like hot glass and Ti tastes like hot Ti, but the highly reactive hot Ti rapidly builds an inert alpha case layer with the nitrogen and oxygen in the air, as well as the carbon and hydrogen in the cannabis essential oils vaporized.  That inert alpha case provides a crisp, but neutral platform for the natural flavors of the cannabinoids and other plant terpenes to come through.

While borosilicate wands work for awhile, they will eventually heat fracture, but we never did fracture one made of quartz.  If you decide you like the taste of glass best, might I suggest quartz for durability and longevity?

If you choose Ti, make sure it is Commercially Pure Ti, as opposed to one of the cheaper and more common structural alloys like 6Al4V, which contain Aluminum and Vanadium.

Rating system:

For evaluation, we will use the following parameters and rate them on a scale of 1 through 10.

1.0       Form:  How purdy is this puppy in appearance?

Is it attractive to look at?

Is it cleanly functional?

Is it art?

2.0       Function:  How cleanly designed is this system in the way it operates?

3.0       How well made?

Could this be passed on as an heirloom, or will you go through a number in a lifetime?

4.0       How successfully does it accomplish the purpose for which it was intended?

The fish trap exists because of the fish, and if something is stupid, and it  works, it isn’t stupid, but just how reliably well does it work, really?

The purpose we measured is the units ability to deliver an adequate dose of    medication, when operated as designed.

5.0       How easy is it for a novice to operate and control dosage?

If you hand it to a novice, with oral or written instructions, how much experience  will the novice require to operate it smoothly?

Smoothly is defined as being able to consistently load and ingest the proper   dosage, without over inhaling to the point of a coughing fit trying to keep up with  the vapor produced, or just altogether losing un-inhaled clouds to the room when  they stop inhaling?

6.0       How efficiently does the system process the oil without internal or external  losses?

How much oil will be lost to condensing films in the overall system and how   much smoke escapes the system un-captured?

How easy is it to lose drops of oil from the system?

7.0       How is the taste?

How well does it present the nuances of the individual flavors involved, without  adding flavors of its own?

How repeatable are the flavors dose to dose?

How was the after taste?

8.0       How effective are two hits of the medication when vaporized by this method,   compared to two hits from a joint of the stuff it was made from?

9.0       How portable and fast is the system?

Will you be carrying this system in your pocket, or in a carrying case?

How much support equipment required?

How long to set up and ingest a dose?

Is it usable in view of the general public?

How transportable while still hot?

Here are the first three systems tested in alphabetical order:

Agnostic Taoist Oil Well:

As you can see by the following picture, the Agnostic Taoist Oil Well and Wand system is professionally made by a scientific glass manufacturer and is elegantly simple, with the only art its craftsmanship and simplicity.

It is a deep double walled bowl, with a ring of holes near the top of the inside bowl wall and is sturdy enough, that unless dropped on a hard surface, it could easily last generations.

To operate the system, oil is placed in the well and touched with the wand, which has been heated with a butane torch.  That vaporizes the oil, which is drawn through the pipe via the holes around the inside of the double walled bowl.

For testing purposes, the AT Oil Well was inserted in one of our own Skunk PharmResearch water cooled pipes and we used both an original AT borosilicate wand, as well as our own skunk pharm quartz and CP Titanium wands.

The AT Oil Well as tested is very effective at delivering controlled doses of vaporized oil from light to heavy doses and we gave it a full 10 points.  It does the job.

Novice operation is a mixed bag.  It is the easiest of the three systems for the novice to control the dosage, but the most complex to load the oil well itself.

Solid pieces can simply be dropped into the well, but oil presents more of a challenge and requires a steady hand when loading lower viscosity oils with a dauber, to not touch the sides of the deep bowl.

Getting it off the dauber can be a challenge at times, so one technique that we use, is to scrape the oil off the dauber with a metal wire over the bowl.  We get the residual oil off the wire, but sticking the tip in the bowl and heating just above the tip with a torch.  When the wire heats up, the oil runs down and off the hot dauber, dropping into the bowl.

To operate, after inserting the oil, the patient simply heats the wand with the torch until it is red, lets it cool below red, and then taps the pool of oil in the well, as many times as it takes to get the size dose that they desire.

Taping the pool and withdrawing the ball on the end of the wand, to the top of the well, blocks the top of the bowl, yet exposes the ring of holes at the top of the well.  That  allows vapors to be drawn up and through them, and then down through the pipe.

If the wand is submerged in the pool and quenched, it will have oil adhering to it when it is withdrawn from the well, and be smoking.  Jamming it into the pool and suddenly withdrawing it from the pool, will also splatter oil about the room.

The ball is small and doesn’t have a lot of mass, so it cools off quickly.  It is pressed to retain enough heat for two doses or passing between heatings.

System losses are relatively high in the oil well itself, because of all the cold glass the vapors must pass through, but are easily reclaimed to make sleep meds with.

In this case, the pipe that the AT oil well was tested in, is a Skunk PharmResearch creation, made in a small run for the local group.  It has a glass on glass taper fit for the down pipe that the oil well bowl taper sits in, which terminates in a proprietary “Defuzzer” diffuser.

The skunk pipe is diminutive compared to most water pipes, to minimize surface open to condense out the oil, but is actually much larger than the even smaller HMK skillet system also tested.

Clearly some lost opportunity here, that we will be addressing with our skunk pipes, and which is not a function or responsibility of the AT Oil Well as tested.

Flavor and after taste are excellent and the system is effective in delivering medication in any dosage desired.

If the oil well is substantially filled however, the lighter constituents will vaporize off first, leaving behind the less aromatic and flavorful ones for last.  Those last doses of meds, will also be more sedative than the first doses.

Switching oils for taste comparison, also requires multiple bowls.  We use a non-water cooled pipe with multiple bowls in class, for students to compare the fruits of our class labors at the end of the class.

From an effectiveness stand point, it is as effective as the oil.  The system vaporizes it well and presents no restrictions.

From a portability standpoint, this isn’t a readily portable system.  A glass aroma therapy water pipe has to be dumped before packing and requires protection from trauma.

Oil transfer tools are required.

A butane torch is required to heat the wand.

It takes a bit to set up and is not something you take a quick hit of in full view of the public.

Only empty oil wells are easy to store, because if laid on their side, the oil will eventually find its way out.

Even empty, but used, the bottoms of the taper get sticky from condensed oil.  We carry oil wells in empty pill containers for that reason.

One item unique to the oil well system, is that once you are through vaporizing, what do you do with the hot wand?  I stick mine in a Pyrex test tube, but other pharmers use an aluminum cigar tube to sheath it in until it cools down.

In summary, the AT Oil Well System is an effective way to vaporize oil and is novice friendly.  We like it and recommend it for home use.

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

SCORE

1 Form 10
2 Function 10
3 Craftsmanship 10
4 Effectiveness 10
5 Novice operation 9
6 Efficiency 8
7 Taste. 10
8 Portability 5

HMK Ti Curve:

We feel blessed that Hash Master Kut made and donated a pipe and curve for these comparisons, as HMK is the original mastermind behind the titanium curve skillet!

Most especially since they have gained such popularity that the demand outstrips the supply so far at times that they are also known as “Unobtainiums”.

By far the purdiest of the lot tested, and a complete pipe assembly, where the other two were adapted to a skunk pipe.  This assembly is artistic, in addition to function.

HMK and his sister produce artistic essential oil aroma therapy devices embodying  the HMK swing skillet assembly, in a petite inhalation device, that artistically reminds me of something sclooompfing through a 60′s and 70′s Dr Seuss garden, with a wagging proboscis and fluffy tail.  It looks like the front edge of the intake bell should be rippling as it sniffs along, catching everything in sight.

Our HMK test sled is clear glass, like we likes it for testing purposes, but their custom made pieces are ornately colored and adorned, so no two are alike.  The first pictures are of our HMK assembly and I will try to copy and add pictures of other other HMK creations later.

The HMK system has been around awhile and reflects evolution and refinement.  The basic principle behind it, is that you heat the Grade 2 CP Titanium skillet with a torch, and swing it down under the bell (snauze?) on the front of the pipe.  You then dab oil on the hot skillet, with a dauber, which vaporizes and is drawn through the pipe through the bell and down through the pipe.

The curve fits into the pipe body via a ground glass taper, and extends down into the water reservoir, where it terminates into a diffuser, made by closing the tube down to a single small hole at the bottom, and perforating the sides.

Its charms include the knobs on both sides, that make it both ambidextrous and handy for passing, and its petite size minimizes the oil losses to inside cooling surfaces.  A hidden charm is that it is a perfect height to set the butane torch beside it, to heat the skillet, as opposed to holding the torch or wand.

Despite the art, the unit remains cleanly functional and is more petite and has less surface area to lose condensed oil to, than our own skunk pipe.

The fluffy tail is the exception, and could be made less artistic and smaller in diameter, but the effect is to drop the velocity of the incoming vapor stream and that appears to give a fuller mouth taste than our own smaller stemmed pipe.

Hee, hee, hee, I can see a new generation of skunk pipes coming out………..

Our unit is heavy walled and pretty sturdy.  Not saying you could drive nails with it, but sturdy enough that I can see my son ending up with it, if one of the other skunk pharmers skulking in the background, waiting for me to die, don’t beat him to it.

As far as fulfilling the purpose for which it was designed, it will deliver any dose size, and is a potent delivery system, that gives or takes no quarter.  The skillet has enough mass to support two doses per heating, which also makes it handy for passing.

Novice operation is a little trickier, with everything simple and easy until we get to dosing.  Dosing is actually simple and easy, but not intuitive and requires some experimentation to get right.

The issue is not any problem getting an adequate dose, but if too much is placed on the skillet, you are stuck with either trying to keep up with the vapor generation and over inhaling to the point of a coughing fit, or leaving vapor escaping into the room un-inhaled.

The gap between the skillet and intake bell is also close, which requires a steady hand or good coordination with two hands, to daub without touching the skillet too soon or sticking stuff to the bell.

Neither a major issue and as keeper of the HMK pipe, with a little practice I’ve become reasonably proficient at it, despite how blind and shaky as I am.

As far as efficiency, the system itself loses some condensed oil to the curve, but the pipe itself is the most efficient we tested in this group.  As with the oil well, the condensed oil in the curve is easily reclaimed and makes killer evening sleep meds.

Taste is full bodied and excellent once the skillet is seasoned.  The aftertaste is also excellent.

I seasoned ours by heating it to cherry red about four times and letting it cool down  to build up an inert nitrogen and oxygen alpha case, and then after pooling oil on the skillet, I burned it off by taking the skillet to 750F with a propane plumbing torch, to reduce the deposits to CO2 and water vapor.

One of the attributes of this system, is that it is consistent dose to dose, as fresh oil is added each time.  That makes it easy to switch between oils to make taste comparisons.

As far as portability, it really isn’t a readily portable system either, because of the water pipe, and need for a torch.  It is also not something that could be used amongst the general public, without drawing attention.

The hot skillet self stores, so unless you are trying to pack it up, it can cool down unattended.

In summary, the HMK Ti Curve pipe assembly works well, delivers an adequate dose, and is handy to use at home.  We like and recommend it.

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

SCORE

1 Form 10
2 Function 10
3 Craftsmanship 10
4 Effectiveness 10
5 Novice operation 8
6 Efficiency 10
7 Taste. 10
8 Portability 5

KO Domeless Nails:

Propitiously to our good fortune, KO Domeless Nails also donated four assemblies for our testing.

KO Domeless nails were designed by a bright young engineering student, and as such are clean in form and function.   They consist of a lathe turned #2 Commercially Pure Titanium nail, encased in what appears to be a tapered molded fused alumina case.

The nail is hollow, and the center of the head where the hole exits, is raised, so as to provide an oil reservoir around the inside perimeter.

The fused alumina case insulates the nail from the pipe system, and the nail head is heated to redness and then allowed to cool to dark, before touching the inside rim of the nail with oil on the end of a dauber.

This vaporizes the oil, which is drawn down through the hollow nail and into the pipe.

In this case, we again used a skunk pipe, but had to have special adapters made so that the nails taper would fit.  That of course reduces efficiency and wouldn’t be necessary in a pipe designed or the larger taper.

The adapter also raised the bowl above eye level in our skunk pipe, which made daubing blind.

Both the nail and the ceramic sheath are neat, precise, and professionally made.  Barring dropping the ceramic sheath, it is built to last several lifetimes, so heirs may fight over it.

It accomplishes the purpose it was designed for very cleanly and concisely, with no fat left over, as you might expect from an engineered design as opposed to an artistic design.  The artistry is in the clean conciseness.

As far as novice operation, it is simple in design and function, but requires that the novice develop some daubing skills so as to not produce more vapor than they can inhale.

In my case, because I couldn’t see what I was doing (not the KO Nails fault), I also dropped some oil down the center hole at least twice, before I got on to dragging the dauber around the inside rim of the nail.

That works well, but it also tends to cause the oil to drop off of the dauber into the well, so it is important that the dauber not have more on it, than one dose.  Like the skillet, with a little practice we got proficient and all liked the system.

As far as system losses, this is by far the most efficient system of the three, as the hollow nail itself, is too hot for the vapors to recondense, but subject to the same losses in our skunk pipe that we tested it in, as any other system plugged into it.

Taste and after taste are excellent after seasoning the nail, which I did by heating it to cherry red about four times and allowing it to cool down, so as to build an inert nitrogen and oxygen alpha case, and then cooking some oil in it until it was reduced to CO2 and water vapor.  I used a propane plumbing torch for that step, so as to save time and butane.

Like the wand and skillet tested, it too is definitely an effective delivery system, which gives or takes no quarter.

Like the oil well and skillet however, it also isn’t really a portable device, because of the need for a water pipe and torch, nor could it be used in public without attracting attention.

In summary, the KO Domeless Nail is an effective medical delivery device, that produces good flavor and effect at home.  We like it and recommend it.

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

SCORE

1 Form 10
2 Function 10
3 Craftsmanship 10
4 Effectiveness 10
5 Novice operation 8
6 Efficiency 10
7 Taste. 10
8 Portability 5

Progress Update 4-21

As I previously mentioned, it really isn’t important isn’t what us’n skunk pharmers think, so we have submitted the three systems to volunteer patient test panels, the first of which we kicked off at a 4-20 83rd birthday party that we threw for our oldest patient, Eloquentsolution’s Stage 7 Alzheimer’s mom.

Lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu lu!!!!!!!!!!!1  Pardee, pardee, pardee!!!!!!!!!!

Two gourmet birthday cakes, spaced three hours apart so she wouldn’t remember the first.  Hee, hee, hee………….

Here is how the 14 member test panel rated the three systems in the different categories.

Comparison of vape panel scores to skunk pharmer ratings

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

Wand

Skillet

Nail

1 Form 10/7.71 10/8.64 10/7.35
2 Function 10/9 10/8.28 10/8.5
3 Craftsmanship 10/8.28 10/8.71 10/8.5
4 Effectiveness 10/8.57 10/8.64 10/8.64
5 Novice operation 9/7.05 8/7.07 8/6.5
6 Efficiency 8/7.35 10/7.85 10/8.92
7 Taste. 10/8 10/8.64 10/7.85
8 Portability 5/4.35 5/3.28 5/4.28

The first number in a box, is the rating us’n skunk pharmers assigned to it, and the second is the average score from 14 volunteer tester.

The numbers in bold are the highest rating in the the different categories.

That concludes our comparison of the three primary choices for vaporizing oil, but watch this space for the “D-Lighter”!

The D-lighter is a DIY vaporizer made out of a $29.95 quartz security light, and uses a dimmer switch for temperature control.  It will vaporize anything from bud material to oil, and other keen tricks!

The D-Lighter Vaporizer

The D-Lighter vaporizer uses heat from two 150W quartz security light bulbs, to heat what ever you put in a test tube inserted into it.  The temperature is controlled by a simple light dimmer switch and the whole assembly cost less than $50 to make.

I will post details on how to make it later as a stand alone post, as I didn’t take pictures while I was making it and have only the completed unit to show.  I will have to make one more, to have those pictures.

To vaporize material ranging from bud, to oil, you simply place it in the test tube, and install the two hole stopper with air vent and extraction tube.

Two reflectors containing the quartz lamps are mounted face to face, and a suitably sized hole is cut in the side of them using a hole saw, to accommodate a 1″ test tube.  A loop of thin stainless sheet metal is sandwiched between the two reflector halves at the end opposite the hole, which the end of the test tube is slipped under to secure the back end in place.

The above test tube with the material in it, is inserted in that hole between the two quartz bulbs and the power set using the dimmer switch.

By watching, you can see when vapors begin to form in the part of the test tube sticking outside the lamp, and by drawing air through the mouth piece, the make up air through a tube installed the other hole in the stopper, blows the vapors toward the mouth piece to be inhaled.

With its electrical cord, it is far from portable, but its primary selling point is its utility.  Not only will it vaporize anything from bud to oil, but it will also fractionally distill cannabis oil from heaver menstruum oils, such as Almond Oil, which vaporizes at 216C/420F.

You can simply soak a rolling paper in the mixture of Almond Oil and Cannabis Oil, place it in the test tube at the proper temperature, and the Cannabis oil will boil off, leaving the Almond oil behind.

The cheeeep Pyrex test tubes can be readily cleaned afterwards, even if something is baked on, simply by filling with denatured alcohol or isopropyl, and using a tooth brush.  They last until you drop them on a hard surface.

Light intensity required for vaporizing is less than half the dimmer switches potential output, so bulb use is good.  I still use the original lamps after four to five years.

I made my base out of a simple electrical box and cover, but at least one associate mounted his on a nice electrical hobby box, so that it turned out purdier.

Here is the unit, for those of ya’ll interested in building one yourselves:

Portable Vaporizer Pens

Well good fortune has smiled upon us once again, and we fell into some $30 Chinese battery packs and inexpensive cartridges for a joint R&D program.  Hee, hee, hee, all it took to pull our vaporizer pen project off the back burner, snicker, snark, snort……..

We’re still experimenting and looking for the cartridge made in heaven, but are convinced that the vaporizer pen has come of age, and the rest is sorting out the details.

For details on that ongoing project, see: http://skunkpharmresearch.com/portable-pen-vaporizers/

For the purposes of this thread, we were pretty impressed, though we do not yet have any recommendations on brands or systems, as we are trying to sort through them ourselves.

The form of our unit was well thought out, from an engineered shape standpoint.  The artistry of form is in its simplicity.

Ours had a LED battery button that glowed white with a fully charged battery, and which slowly turned blue as the battery drained.  It didn’t come with a destruction manual, but I measured the output at 3.8 volts.

The battery pack function well, though we had to get on line to figure out that we had to click the switch five times in rapid succession to turn it on the first time.

It conveniently charges from a USB port with the cord that came with it, or from my home and car phone chargers, so there was no need to spend money for a charger.

The cartridges were a mixed bag and while we’ve found a combination of cartridge and oil that works.  We finally settled on a 2 ohm 510 style cartridge, and using non decarboxylated BHO Absolute Amber in it.

We tried other cartridges as well, and you may find the details in the above link.  Suffice to say that the cartomizer will be the focus of our research.

The craftsmanship of all of our pens was excellent, with no complaints about the quality.  I’ve heard as high as 20% failure rate in cheap pens, but we got three good ones.

We rate the effectiveness as very high.  Not hard to get a light through an effective dose, though not as full bodied as a nail, skillet, or wand.  It is simply another tool, that is portable and able to fill in between oral doses.

Novice operation is a mixed bag.  It is highly novice friendly if the cartomizer is already loaded with material, but if the novice has to fill their own, I predict much consternation and profanity.

We filled the tank types with decarboxylated Absolute Amber, by heating it up in a hot water bath, drawing it up into a glass syringe, and injecting it into the tanks.

Getting the non decarboxylated Absolute Amber Shatter into the KR510 cartridges was trickier, and was accomplished with a pencil torch and some stainless welding wire.  Not for the fumble fingered, or casual patient.

With a prefilled cart, what could be sweeter.  Push the button and suck!  Some learning curve on how long to hold the button and how long to suck after letting go, so that the vent tube doesn’t clog.

We don’t know what the efficiency is yet, because we aren’t through testing, but it should be pretty high, as long as you can reclaim the unused oil from spent carts.  More on this subject after further testing.

Taste, uuuum well, it tastes sort of phenolically hashy.  Not nasty, but not as tasty as vaporizing with a nail, skillet, or wand.  A price for portability.

Portability is excellent and you might be able to pass it off in public as an electronic cigarette, but it is a little big.  Better to pass it off as a inhaler.

It definitely produces a smell when you exhale, though it doesn’t smell like burning marijuana, so it may or may not draw attention.  One of our testers exhaled a lung full in a theater, and the usher came to investigate, though left without comment.

I now carry one in my jacket pocket and use it discriminatingly in public, without attracting attention or crowds.  We are still testing, so more on this subject as things develop.

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

SCORE

1 Form 10
2 Function 7
3 Craftsmanship 10
4 Effectiveness 10
5 Novice operation 10/5
6 Efficiency ????TBD
7 Taste. 5
8 Portability 10/5

Improved Domeless Nail

Hee, hee, hee, don’t you just love it when something just keeps getting better?

KO Domeless Nails just sent us a couple of their newest creation to test, and we’re impressed.

The V-2 version has a larger bowl and a double taper on the ceramic sleeve, which allows it to fit into our skunk pipe without an adapter.  That does several things.

The bowl is now at eye level on our pipe, so we can see what we are doing.  A different pipe design would have accomplished the same thing, but now we don’t have to!

The larger, thinner walled bowl not only heats up faster, but it is easier to hit with the daub, without losing oil down the center vent. The center vent tube is also taller, which aids in missing it.

The nail stem threads into the molded ceramic sleeve, and has a knurled nut that allows spacing the bowl above the castellated ceramic heat sink, to minimize heat transfer.  That keeps the bowl hot longer, allows faster heat up, and minimizes heat transfer to the glass pipe taper fitting.

We have tested it in house and we likes it!  We will replace the V-1 version in our panel tests and report back after our next one.

NO

MEASUREMENT 1 through 10

SCORE

1 Form 10
2 Function 10
3 Craftsmanship 10
4 Effectiveness 10
5 Novice operation 9
6 Efficiency 10
7 Taste. 10
8 Portability 5

9-11-2003

Check this puppy out for a portable vaporizer.  It was made by Mori Design and donated by a student, but I have no idea how to buy one, though it continues to get raves and favorable reviews as we continue to test it with new groups.

Besides being a gorgeous thang, it actually works well too, as long as there isn’t a strong cross breeze.

Mori Design pipe-1-1Mori Design pipe-1-2

59 responses to this post.

  1. SSV Oil Kit is pretty great. Also try the Cera pen, promises to actually vape vs burn on a wick/wire

    Reply

  2. Hello again ….Having finally finished my harvest, I have some time for comments.
    I use an oil-well to vaporize, at home. I have read this section quite thoroughly and am surprised to not have seen mentioned my preferred vaporization method. It also occurs to me that here may some health risk with my method that I am unaware of … so here goes.
    There is a line of soldering devices made in Japan, by Hakko. What makes these unusual, and one in particular, ideal, is that they are easy to take apart, and the interior heating element is ceramic. The one in particular that I find ideal, is the ‘Presto’ model.

    http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_presto.html.

    This model has an always on low setting that is almost ideal for vaporizing THC as it is, and a button to get the ceramic element glowing redhot, as well.
    What I normally do is push the button to get the element hot, and use that to encourage the oil to leave my spatula and drop into the oilwell … I then allow the element to cool down some (2-3 seconds) and use it to vaporize oil in the oilwell.
    As far as I know the ceramic element should be non reactive especially on the low setting (20w).
    BTW the button to get the increased temperature is labeled ‘Push High’ … aren’t the Japanese … thoughtful :-)

    Reply

  3. Posted by cash on April 30, 2013 at 10:02 AM

    hi how can butter up my wax thank u

    Reply

    • Still trying to develop a reliable process. We seem to have the best luck with reasonably fresh material, and vacuum purging at low heat for an extended period of time. It appears to be a hydrate, that requires some moisture to work, and really dry material doesn’t seem to work well.

      Different strains are different, as is whether it is winterized or not.

      Try purging it at 115F and -29.5″ Hg vacuum in a thin film until the solvent is gone, and then cooling it down, before cooking it at 90/100F under vacuum, until it waxes up.

      After making shatter, you can also roll it in a ball, and cook it again at 90/100F, so that it blows up into a muffin, and holding it at that temperature and vacuum until it turns to a wax.

      Reply

      • Posted by dan on August 19, 2013 at 5:54 AM

        “After making shatter, you can also roll it in a ball, and cook it again at 90/100F, so that it blows up into a muffin”
        I always thought that if it is still blowing up into a muffin, that means there is still butane in there (unless you whipped air into it first?) I group my thin film into a big pile before my last vac to check it that way…Am I over vac’ing?

        Also, please post plans for the D-Lighter vaporizer or just a few pics of its insides. I am about ready to go half ass my own version. It seems like a great day project and I’m really curious as to how the hit is. The temperature control looks great for flavors :)

        Reply

  4. [...] lights and a dimmer switch for the heat source and a pyrex test tube for the vaporizing chamber. http://skunkpharmresearch.com/vaporizing-oil/ Check it out, i wonder if i could just buy a test tube and just use my torch on the pyrex tube to [...]

    Reply

  5. Posted by dboy on April 9, 2013 at 5:25 PM

    I have accumulated about 2.5 oz of high quality vaporized bud, I am looking for something to do with it or should I just flush it?

    Reply

  6. Posted by Sppete13 on March 3, 2013 at 2:01 AM

    Just got my domeless nail… Now I need a bubbler like yours…. Do you sell or does specialized sell bubblers?

    Reply

  7. [...] be far off with any one of them, and they all will get the job done. Here's a link to our study:http://skunkpharmresearch.com/vaporizing-oil/ Reply With [...]

    Reply

  8. Posted by drooskie on December 26, 2012 at 9:16 PM

    hey i have a vape pen and i find it to have a kinda chemical taste? cant really elaborate on it but every pen i have tried so far has it. do you guys have any experience?

    Reply

    • We don’t use either glycerin or Propylene Glycol, so the chemical tastes that we experience, is a growing phenolic taste as the contents of the cart are used up. Cannabinoids are phenols, and as we evaporate away the lighter cannabinoids and terpenes, we are left with the longer chained, higher boiling point constituets, which taste ever more phenolic.

      Reply

  9. Posted by Tyrelle Raymer on December 25, 2012 at 5:27 PM

    Great info. You mentioned using reclaim oil for oral meds. Do I have to decarb first or is it already decarbed. Do I need to extract using oil(coco) or just take it straight. Trying to get the maximum sedative effect

    Reply

  10. The I-Con vape is a new pen style vaporizer with many options for vaping oils and waxes. Also an herb chamber that with proper usage can vape herb or bubble hash.

    Reply

  11. Posted by Randy on November 24, 2012 at 1:02 PM

    Check out the pen vaporizers from “gentlemensvapes.com”. Lots of options, stainless.

    Reply

  12. Is the Domeless KO nail out of business?

    Reply

  13. who makes the KO domeless nail V2?

    do you have a website or phone number?

    Reply

  14. who makes the KO Domless nail V2?

    do you have a website or phone number?

    Reply

  15. I’m still a bit worried about thermal decomposition from using a hot nail or skillet. My preferred way of vaporizing BHO flake (Pure Xtracts) is to sprinkle a thin layer into the elbow screen of my Arizer Extreme Q vape, then cover it with a thin layer of ground bud and give it a very light pack, just enough to hold it in. A load fills maybe 1/4 of the elbow screen. The elbow screen ends up upside down at the top of the Extreme Q. Hot air blows up through the packed bud, melting the flake. The melt soaks down onto the bud, transforming it into a wick and giving a larger surface for the hot air to vaporize. The controlled temperature means there’s no thermal decomposition of the waxes. It is wonderfully flavorful and efficient. When I’m done, I scrape the remnants into my ABV container and store the elbow screen in a small bottle of 99% isopropanol. Next time I vape, I run the vape with the screen empty to dry it, and it is as good as new. I’m still using the original screen that came with the vape.

    Reply

    • Thanks for sharing your technique! Sounds tasty!

      Good point about BHO byproducts of pyrolysis, though your concerns for overheating BHO with a nail or skillet may not be totally justified, as regardless of how hot the nail is, short of combustion temperature, you can’t heat the oil beyond its boiling point by placing it on a hot surface at atmospheric pressure. It just dances on the vapor that is produced, like spit on a skillet.

      I clean our skillets, nails, and wands of residuals by heating them beyond the decomposition temperature of organic compounds, turning it into CO2, water vapor, and light grey ash.

      GW

      Reply

  16. Posted by jasmin on October 8, 2012 at 3:36 PM

    Does the ceramic holder get hot on the ko domless?

    Reply

  17. Posted by Anady on June 29, 2012 at 3:01 PM

    what are your thoughts on the thermovape for botanical or essential oils??

    Reply

    • Sorry, we haven’t tried one yet!

      Reply

    • Posted by Elon on July 26, 2012 at 6:04 PM

      I have the Thermovape Revolution and it’s my new go-to vape.

      Reply

      • Posted by Anady on August 1, 2012 at 9:48 AM

        Really, awesome! Thanks so much for responding. May I ask what oils do you use? Do you know where I could go to look for info on (convection) vaping oils?

        Reply

        • Posted by Elon on August 2, 2012 at 1:52 PM

          I typically use BHO and sometimes also dip it in kief. Heat up time is less than 8 seconds. As for convection vaping, I have the Volcano that allows the use of oils when you use the pad they sell. I have also vaped BHO in a bong using a heat gun and it worked well. Just make sure your heat gun gets high enough. I usually shoot for around 400 degrees as a minimum.

          Reply

          • Good points! We will look at picking up a pad and adding our Volcano to the oil vaporizing review. We didn’t try it initially, because of the poor reviews we heard on how well it keeps the oil in place.

            GW

  18. hey ko i would like to purchase a domeless nail where do i get them
    thanks ovrez

    Reply

  19. hey KO i would like to know where to purchase these domeless nails
    thank you Ovrez

    Reply

  20. Posted by mrwhome on June 2, 2012 at 3:55 PM

    Thank you very much for the KO V2 review Skunk Pharm we are always stocked for you all to test and do some R&D with our products and will continue sending them your way! Every1 here at KO is excited for this new version.

    Also, Thought I would include I saw in the pictures that the top bowl is resting all the way down against the ceramic. Because we jumped into sales right away to provide these to patients we have not included instructions yet for this V2. I wanted to let everyone know that in the near future direction for use will be included. But for now just wanted to let everyone know that the top bowl height is adjustable. You can thread it up and down into the ceramic adaptor and use the nut to adjust with the height to make it tight.

    Use can be done at any level, however if you raise the top bowl off of the ceramic adaptor more, you can use the top extruded heat fins on the ceramic part to grab and pull the bowl if your are into clearing your piece. This does not really need to be done with essential oils however this is something which we have build into the V2 part for those who wish to have this feature.

    Thank you again, Skunk Pharm keep up all the hard work!

    Sincerely,
    KO – Founder and producer of KO Domeless Nails

    Reply

    • Our pleasure brother KO, we’uns just love trying out new thangs! Our kind of hard work! Hee, hee, hee………….

      Thanks for the input! My photography shows it poorly, but I adjusted both of the nails so that the bowls were about .050″ off of the top of the ceramic, to block convection heat transfer, but experimented with no further adjustments.

      What air gap do you recommend for best performance?

      Reply

      • Posted by mrwhome on June 7, 2012 at 6:16 PM

        Its all good and I think the photography was also done real well. But yes, I now see the 0.05″ off, must have been too quick of a glimpse last time. The thread length its self is 1.50″ long so I left plenty of length for the user to find what is right with them and their setup however I would recommend threading the KO into the ceramic adaptor anywhere from 0.4″ to 1.0″ this will leave plenty of room from the top of the ceramic piece to the bowl preventing any heat transfer to the ceramic from the heating element. I hope this helps a bit but feel free to reply with any question if you have them, all is real busy down here but I will continue to Check in on Skunk Pharm for questions, comments and feedback these comments when im in the area (: Thanks again Skunk Pharm all you hard work is much appreciate, Keep it up im always sending you all good vibes from Cali.

        Sincerely,
        KO

        Also, for purchasing as of now I am not selling them individually or directly, I will be setting up a webcite as soon as I get a few free minutes however. But until then you can find them on Hawaiianholysmokes.com. Thanks again, hope everyone enjoys and finds this new tool helpful.

        Reply

  21. great stuff m8 a credit to yis

    Reply

    • Thanks for the good thoughts bro!

      Reply

      • Skunk pharm. i read your thread on ecig methods of oil vaporization and thought if share my study with you. The Farm, a dispensary in boulder Colorado had numerous problems with there cartridges for oil so I was self assigned to develope the perfect pen/cartridge for oil. Specifically c02 oil, but any oil that is not too viscous or too think works well. Take a look at this, and order a cartridge for your students to try. I’ve spent hours on end finding the perfect solution and would like to share it with you since your information has been my encyclopedia for shatter and absolute production. It is a adjustable voltage 510 battery, with a kangertech T3S double bottom coil cartridge. I replaced the coil with a 2.2 ohm resistance coil.
        My contact information is ianaram@gmail.com and would be happy to explain and send photos. This setup gives perfect adjustable size hits from the very first hit to the very very last.
        You will be very pleased with it and the entire pen can be purchased new for under $32.00USD.
        Hope you look into it, I have been told my many dispensary owners that this solves all the associated problems and is the future of oil vaporization. Especially for thpse, like my mother, who are cancer patients and require exact dosage of pure concentrates on the go, without any hassle. I did mutiple studies, and found, on average, 1.0 gram of >90% pure c02 extracted oil to produce 1280 medium sizes hits.
        -Ian Aram of Boulder, Colorado
        (Ianaram@gmail.com, (phone contact info removed)

        Reply

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